食物的文化滋味－大甲溪流域泰雅族的飲食與社會生活

本文以臺中縣和平鄉大甲溪流域泰雅族部落為例，探討飲食行為和集體社會之間的相互創構性關係。主要從食物生產、食材內容、烹調處理、特殊場合共食與禁忌等面向，追溯過去民族誌相關記載的流變，並從在地飲食習慣承續及轉換過程，瞭解族群間的互動影響，以及個人對群體的識別和認同。食物之所以有效的關鍵，在於他們是文化慣習內的具體物。在不同時空中所傳遞文化味覺，雜揉著隱喻、轉喻和象徵的意義，所經歷身體化的生物與文化過程，亦如從一個情境過渡到另個情境有力的載體。泰雅人農作生產、食物口味多樣化的演變，可視作社會和文化上適應策略之一。但在生命禮俗、節慶活動等場合，泰雅人仍持續透過傳統料理的共食和展演，傳達難以言表的共感經驗，在現實社會纏結中識別彼此。正因為如此，雖然泰雅族固有的部落制度、社會結構表面上逐漸瓦解，但是飲食習慣和禁忌卻顯示泰雅人傳統的社會組織、宗教信仰、物質文化體系的分類觀念，和食物仍有著綿密的牽連關係。祖靈疊影的光譜，除了影響作物收成和獵物數量外，最主要的是解釋為什麼泰雅人會在特定場合選擇特定食物，作為重溫文化味覺記憶，進而建構認同的原因。

關鍵字

泰雅族；食物；文化味覺；共感認同

並列摘要

By taking the Atayal tribe in the Dajia river basin, Heping county, Taichung city, as an research object, this article aims at investigating mutually constructive correlation between the eating behavior and collective society of the tribe. From different aspects of food production, eating materials, cooking processes, together-eating and taboo in special occasions, this article traces back to changes of related documents in the ethnography over the past, and also unlocks the relationship among tribes, personal discrimination and identification inside Atayal tribe according to their local food habits and food evolution processes. The effective role the food has played hinges on the facts that food is an embodiment inside the cultural habits, and cultural tastes transited through different space and time mix the meaning of metaphor, extension explanation, and symbolization. Through the biological and cultural processes of the food becoming a part of the body, eating materials can be regarded as a carrier transforming from one eating context to another. The agricultural production and the evolution of versatile food tastes can be regarded as one of social and cultural adaptation strategies. However, in some occasions, such as life rituals and ceremonial activities, the Atayal people still continues to adopt eating-together and performance of traditional food to convey unspeakable empathy experience, thereby identifying each other in the entangled and complicated society. Because of this, although the original tribe system and social structure of the Atayal tribe have been destroying gradually apparently, their eating behaviors and inherent food habits reveal that there are still close correlation among their social structure, religious belief, classification concept of their material culture system, and even food notion. In addition to effect of their harvest and hunting results, the Utux's impacts are mainly used for explaining the true reasons why the Atayal tribe chooses certain eating materials in certain occasions, thereby recalling cultural taste and memory and establishing or enforcing personal identification.

並列關鍵字

Atayal tribe ； food ； cultural taste ； empathy and identify

參考文獻

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食物的文化滋味－大甲溪流域泰雅族的飲食與社會生活

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