榮耀與權力：16世紀佛羅倫斯「梅迪奇石榴紋樣」之設計與其視覺意涵

Glory and Power: Pattern Design of the Medici Pomegranate and its Visual Connotations in Sixteenth-Century Florence

葉嘉華(Chia-Hua Yeh)

《設計學報》 28卷1期 (2023/03) Pp. 49-72

摘要

本文主要探索佛羅倫斯16世紀前半所創之「梅迪奇石榴紋樣」的設計概念以及其視覺意涵。本研究以15世紀到16世紀的織品收藏以及梅迪奇家族的肖像為研究材料，採用織品實物考察以及視覺分析兩種方法進行考察。本次成果有二：一為「梅迪奇石榴紋樣」展示佛羅倫斯織品工藝的特色以及創意，同時具有提振地方經濟的意味；二為「梅迪奇石榴紋樣」以及其概念之衍生型，通過佛羅倫斯公爵的肖像畫描繪，成為政治合法性以及傳承的視覺符碼。

關鍵字

視覺意涵 ； 織品紋樣 ； 石榴主題 ； 梅迪奇家族 ； 文藝復興肖像 ； 織品史

並列摘要

This article aims to explore the design concept of pomegranate pattern in Florentine textiles and its connotations during the Renaissance by a study on the "Medici pomegranate pattern" created in the first half of the 16th century. From the perspective of western textile history, this research employs two research approaches, including artefact-based approach and visual analysis, and examines surviving examples of textiles in Florentine and Tuscan museums and their visual representation on portraits of the Medici family. In doing so, this study not only discusses how the idea of textile pattern was derived from local tradition, but also puts forward that the purpose of producing the pattern is to demonstrate design creativity and industrial innovation at that given time. Furthermore, the Medici pomegranate pattern continuously inspired new types of pattern design for royal robe which were transformed through portraiture of Florentine state portraits, especially those for the Grand Dukes, becoming a sign of the political legitimacy and inheritance of glory that the Medici once possessed.

並列關鍵字

Visual Connotation ； Textile Pattern ； Pomegranate Motif ； the Medici ； Renaissance Portraiture ； Textile History

參考文獻

Franceschi, F. (2020). Big business for firms and states: Silk manufacturing in Renaissance Italy. Business History Review, 94(1), 95-123. http://doi.org/10.1017/S0007680520000100

Backus, I. (2014). Asia materialized: Perceptions of China in Renaissance Florence (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). University of Chicago, Chicago, Illinois.

Benito Fanelli, R. (1992). I tessuti del contado fiorentino nel secolo XV. In A. F. Capitani & S. Ricci (Eds.), Il costume al tempo di Lorenzo il magnifico (pp. 43-49). Florence: Charta.

Benito Fanelli, R. (1993). The pomegranate motif in Italian Renaissance silks: A semiological interpretation of pattern and colour. In S. Cavaciocchi (Ed.), La seta di Europa, Secoli XIII-XX (pp. 507-530.). Florence: Istituto International e di Storica Economica.

Benito Fanelli, R. (1994). The pomegranate pattern in Italian Renaissance textiles: Origins and influence. Contact, crossover, continuity. In Proceedings of the Fourth Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America (pp. 193-204). Los Angeles, CA: Textile Society of America. Retrieved from https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2047&context=tsaconf