電腦輔助鞋面版型設計

An Approach to Computer-Aided Design for Making Vamp Pattern of Shoes

張濠仁(Hao-Jen Chang)

指導教授 ： 黃銘智

國立臺北科技大學/設計學院/創新設計研究所/碩士(2005年)

https://doi.org/10.6841/NTUT.2005.00135

摘要

鞋飾產品的製作過程非常複雜，主要步驟包括版型製作、皮革結幫與車縫皮料等。為了忠實展現鞋飾的樣式，必須經由適當的鞋面版型，進行皮革切割備料，然後透過結幫作業，將皮革扳製對應於鞋楦本體上，最後加以車縫完成鞋體，所以正確的版型設計極為重要。由於傳統以人工方式設計鞋面版型，容易產生誤差，必須依賴經驗豐富的鞋樣設計師，繪製鞋面版型。因此本文提出一套電腦輔助鞋面版型設計模式，提供給鞋樣設計師能夠正確地快速繪製出鞋面版型。版型設計過程中，最重要的步驟就是將鞋楦的3D曲面轉換成2D平面（版型）。目前的曲面攤平方法，都會產生網格變形或是外型失真的情況，必須透過相關的網格處理。為求正確版型，本研究所提之電腦輔助鞋面版型設計，是利用3D量測鞋楦模型，進行曲面重建，然後繪製分版區域，並將分版曲面重新產生規則的三角網格，再進行攤平，最後預留結幫餘裕，形成正確的版型。研究中所用曲面攤平方法，是採用旋轉正交特性法，其中攤平時所產生的網格間隙問題，則利用網格邊長延展的方式加以修補。為了證明本電腦輔助鞋面版型設計模式的可行性，研究中以實際案例進行驗證，同時由經驗豐富之鞋樣設計師，以手工進行版型繪製，最後比對兩者的差異。結果證明本研究版型設計模式，可以得到近似手工製作的版型。

關鍵字

鞋楦 ； 版型 ； 曲面攤平 ； 電腦輔助設計

並列摘要

The procedure for making shoes is very complicated. The main steps include the pattern–making, leather lasting, and sewing…etc. The correct pattern is important to cut the appropriate vamp plates for making shoes. Traditionally, it is necessary for experienced shoe pattern designers to draw the vamp pattern, owing to man-made shoe pattern is easy to result error. In this paper, an approach to computer-aided design for making vamp pattern of shoes is proposed. By the proposed approach, the shoe pattern designers can quickly flatten the surfaces of vamps to obtain the correct patterns. The approach consists of several parts: (1) the surface model of the shoe last is rebuilt by the 3D scanning data; (2) sketching the outlines of individual vamps on the surface model; (3) generating the triangle-mesh model for the surface of the individual vamp; (4) determining the initial mesh and the direction to flatten the vamp surface; and (5) setting the margin of the vamp for lasting and sewing. The algorithm of surface flatten is developed by adopting the 「Orthogonal Properties of Rotation Matrices」method. Through the algorithm in this paper, the triangle meshes can remain the original neighbor relationship during flattening the surface. The proposed approach has been implemented by a real design case. The result of the case study proves the viability of the proposed approach for practical applications.

並列關鍵字

Shoe Last ； Pattern ； Surface Flattening ； Computer-Aided Design

參考文獻

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