食物在地化的建構歷程：以「美濃野蓮」為例

The Construction Process of the Localization of Food: A Case Study of 'Water Snowflake of Meinung'

鍾怡婷(Yi-Ting Chung) ； 賴守誠(Shou-Cheng Lai)

《農業推廣學報》 31期 (2014/07) Pp. 1-24

https://doi.org/10.29788/RAES.201407_(31).0001

摘要

本研究運用義大利學者Gianluca Brunori提出之地方鄉土食物、地方性食物與地方主義式食物之類型區分，探討「美濃野蓮」此一地方食物之的建構歷程與變動軌跡，並藉以思辯當前食物在地化之發展趨勢。本研究指出，基於現實條件的改變與鄉村結構運作的新發展，地方食物之意涵實際上經歷著持續的建構與變動，於是野蓮從早期做為一種地方鄉土食物，在經過媒體與地方行動者的文化建構之後轉型成為地方性食物。然而，做為野蓮之核心品質的地方性意涵仍舊不斷變動與重組，近年來更出現朝地方主義式食物類型的發展。通過此一案例，地方鄉土食物之樣貌被勾勒地更細緻，亦闡明了透過地方來確保食物品質之地方性食物的建構過程。最後，本研究發現之重要性在於，食物在地化做為一種重振地方發展的策略，食物有機會成為關鍵的媒介，使得地方獲得支持與鞏固。

關鍵字

地方食物 ； 食物在地化 ； 品質認定 ； 野蓮

並列摘要

The case study discusses the construction process and trajectory of the localization of the 'water snowflake' of Meinung and debates the trends of food localization through the classification about local food, locality food, and localist food suggested by Gianluca Brunori. This paper argues that the implication of the food from the local has actually been under continuous construction and dynamic based on the change of social conditions and different developments of rural structure. Therefore, the water snowflake of Meinung had been transformed from a kind of local food to locality food through the cultural construction by the media and local actors. However, as the central quality of water snowflake, the locality has still been changing and recombined. Furthermore, the turn to the category of localist food has emerged in recent years. Through this case, the figure of local food has been illustrated. Moreover, the construction of the locality food, which being ensured by adding the locality has been explicated. In conclusion, the founding of the paper highlight the importance of which foods in the food localization strategy to local development have taken on a symbolic and medium importance, altering us to the support role anchored in local places.

並列關鍵字

local food ； food localization ； qualification ； water snowflake