馬來西亞華人傳統咖啡店的空間構成與文化研究——以砂拉越詩巫咖啡店為例

19世紀鴉片戰爭後，大規模的華人南遷至當時仍是英國殖民地的馬來西亞，為當地帶來大量勞動力，也使得華人成為當地第二大族裔。華人的大量湧入增添了當地豐富多元的飲食文化。時至今日，華人所開設的餐館已經遍及馬來西亞的各大城市與小鄉鎮。在華人傳統飲食傳承的過程中，形成一種特殊的空間場域——傳統華人咖啡店（Kopitiam）,『Kopitiam』這一詞是融合了馬來語中的『咖啡』（kopi）和福建話中的『店』（tiàm）而成的混合詞。在馬來西亞，咖啡店不只是當地人心目中的早餐、午餐、下午茶、晚餐甚至宵夜的用餐場所，亦是家庭聚餐、朋友聚餐、聊天、約會、談論公事的場所。此外，在馬來西亞華人傳統社交文化中有一中名為“喝茶”的社交活動，“喝茶”即一群人相約聚會聊天，而喝茶的地點多在傳統華人咖啡店中。傳統華人咖啡店在馬來西亞華人的生活場域中扮演了不可或缺的重要角色。加上不同族裔攤主的進駐，使得這一空間場域產生多元民族融合。但是近十幾年來，多家國際連鎖咖啡店（如星巴克）、國際連鎖飲料店（日出茶太、黑丸）和本土連鎖咖啡廳（Paparich、Old Towm）在馬來西亞迅速崛起，吸引年輕一代華人在選擇聚會地點或吃飯地點時多轉往上述空間聚集。年輕人的流失使得傳統華人咖啡店的客群出現斷層，這樣的情況對傳統華人咖啡店的生意產生了一定的衝擊。有鑑於此，本研究將以砂拉越州詩巫市的傳統華人咖啡店為研究對象，探討傳統華人咖啡店的空間構成與空間文化因應未來的競爭力。同時透過對傳統華人咖啡店空間分析的結果，提供傳統華人咖啡店未來經營者空間改善策略，並契合現代年輕人的空間美學和創新發展咖啡店在生活文化上的亮點。

關鍵字

馬來西亞華人；傳統咖啡店；飲食文化；飲食空間構成；多元民族融合

並列摘要

After the Opium War in the 19th century, large-scale Chinese moved south to Malaysia, which was still a British colony. It brought a lot of labor to the local area and made the Chinese become the second largest ethnic group in the region. The influx of Chinese has added a rich and diverse food culture. Today, the restaurants opened by Chinese people have spread throughout Malaysia's major cities and small towns. In the process of Chinese traditional diet, a special space field is formed - the traditional Chinese coffee shop (Kopitiam). The word "Kopitiam" is a fusion of Malay's "kopi" and Fujianese. The mixed word of "shop" (tiàm). In Malaysia, coffee shops are not just locals' breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner or even late night dining. They are also a place for family gatherings, friends gathering, chatting, dating, and talking about business. In addition, there is a social activity called “Drinking Tea” in the traditional Chinese social culture of Malaysia. “Drinking tea” means that a group of people meet and chat, and the place where tea is served is mostly in traditional Chinese coffee shops. Traditional Chinese coffee shops play an indispensable role in the lives of Malaysian Chinese. Coupled with the presence of different ethnic stalls, this space field has a multi-ethnic integration. However, in the past decade, many international chain coffee shops ( Starbucks), international chain beverage stores (Chatime, Black Ball) and local chain cafes (Paparich, Old Towm) have risen rapidly in Malaysia, attracting younger generation Chinese. Transfer to the above space when you choose a meeting place or a place to eat. The loss of young people has caused the fault of the traditional Chinese Kopitiam customer base. This situation has had a certain impact on the business of traditional Chinese Kopitiam. In view of this, this study will focus on the traditional Chinese Kopitiam in Sibu City, Sarawak, to explore the spatial composition of traditional Chinese Kopitiam and the spatial culture to cope with future competitiveness. At the same time, through the analysis of the space of the traditional Chinese Kopitiam, it provides a space improvement strategy for the traditional Chinese Kopitiam future operators, and fits the space aesthetics of modern young people and innovatively develops the highlights of the Kopitiam in the life culture.