＂An Accidental Porn Star＂: David Mas Masumoto, Food Pornography, and the Politics of the Food Movement

大衛‧增本、食物情色與美國食物運動

Shiuhhuah Serena Chou

《Tamkang Review》 48卷1期 (2017/12) Pp. 1-17

https://doi.org/10.6184/TKR201712-1

摘要

In this essay, I examine how Masumoto's distress over his possible food-porn writing sheds light on a food movement that, while entertaining a sensuous approach to food and eating through visual and verbal exploitation of images of food, intricately blends gustatory pleasure with ethical and political eating and defines the flavors of food through white, elitist conceptions of health and sustainability. His attempt to claim authority over the (organic) food infrastructure through first-person, nonfictional narratives, or documentary film of ＂real lives and real stories,＂ unravels a cultural milieu in which the appeals of the cultures and ecologies of farming have lost ground to that of food in the U.S. because of the unprecedented growth of the urban population in the second half of the twentieth century. In this so-called ＂food＂ movement, the geographical and ethical-political distances between urban consumers and the sources of their food, established by the capitalist food industry, conspire with both the desire for, and the fear of, the cultivation of intimate personal or bodily relations with the immanence of food and agricultural production. And, for Masumoto, this estrangement and disconnection from the ＂real＂ and the immanent has propelled the reading of his intimate and visceral approach to food and farming as pornographic-that is, as sexually seductive and culturally expensive and extravagant.

關鍵字

food pornography ； David Mas Masumoto ； food movement ； organic farming ； food justice

並列摘要

本文將檢視大衛‧增本苦思的「食物情色」寫作方式如何替糧食運動揭開新頁。這波全新的食物運動充滿娛樂性質且挑逗感官的食物照片與文字，不僅巧妙結合味蕾享受與挑戰道德極限的飲食方式，也透過白人菁英階層的健康與永續概念，重新定義食物的味道。增本嘗試以第一人稱的非虛構敘事、或透過「實在生活與真實故事」的紀錄片主導（有機）食物鏈結構。美國二十世紀後半葉破紀錄的人口湧入都會區，耕種文化與生態保育的吸引力已失去優勢。在這場所謂的食物運動之中，資本主義大規模的糧食生產已讓都會人口與食物產地出現斷裂。人們既渴望、卻又懼怕讓自己與食物及農業生產建立任何情／慾關係。對增本而言，這種疏離與斷裂的現象促使讀者透過情／慾的眼光了解糧食與農耕，並將他的作品視為一種魅惑與奢華。

並列關鍵字

食物情色 ； 大衛‧增本 ； 食物運動 ； 有機農業

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