可永續時尚的轉化－設計師的機會與挑戰

Transforming for Sustainable Fashion-Designer's Possibilities and Challenges

黃佩鈺(P. Y. Huang)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 31卷1期 (2021/01) Pp. 98-109

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.202101_31(1).0008

摘要

永續的議題是時尚產業無法再迴避的嚴厲挑戰，特別是在快時尚成為服飾市場的主流之時，流行時尚產業違反永續的性格也更加的醒目，隨著快時尚經營模式的成功，其環境與社會的負面衝擊也更加引人關注。雖然批評的聲浪很高，但時尚產業對永續問題所作出的回應卻效果不佳；本文指出有別於其他的商品，時尚產業的永續轉化有其獨特的困難，其一與流行的本質有關，另一個原因與全球分工的產業結構有關，強調時尚產業永續轉化過程中所面臨的挑戰之多元性格。隨後將焦點鎖定於設計師，探討設計在永續的轉化中可以發揮的功能以及目前設計教育的問題點。最後透過既有研究整理出設計師在處理永續問題時發現的內外障礙，由此推論出時尚產業的永續轉化可能的發展方向。

關鍵字

時尚產業 ； 永續發展 ； 永續時尚 ； 服裝設計師

並列摘要

Sustainability is the main challenge facing the fashion industry today. Due to the negative environmental and social impacts associated with apparel throughout its life cycle. Even worse is the emerging of the fast fashion business model that emphasizes speed to market and design responsiveness, and is becoming the norm in the fashion retailing sector. Fast fashion was able to prosper because of apparel companies moving production overseas, which allowed for the cost to dramatically fall, but the environmental and human right consequences have largely been ignored. Reasons for this might include the apparent contradictions between fashion and sustainability that makes problem complex and difficult to understand. Since design has greatest potential in reducing the negative impacts of fashion products, so sustainability literacy must be embedded in the design process if the industry wants to change it in a meaningful way. Unfortunately, for too long the design community has viewed social and environmental concerns as being beyond its remit, and fashion designers rarely identify themselves within the role of problem solver. Part of the reason is the current framework of education is largely uncritical and continues the practices of unsustainability. Besides, from previous research, we point out the barriers designers facing both inside and outside the organization when practice sustainable strategies. Until now, responses to the wide scale negative environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry have been reactive and focused on piecemeal strategies that lack a cohesive perspective. Therefore, systematic change of the fashion industry toward a more sustainable future requires a holistic approach that can encompass all facets and stakeholders.

並列關鍵字

Fashion industry ； sustainable development ； sustainable fashion ； fashion designer