針織羊毛聚酯混紡織物對運動服裝之與濕度管理與熱阻抗功能之探討

本研究採用兩種聚酯與羊毛混紡纖維比例：T/W70/30與T/W50/50，作為冷環境下運動基本層織造素材。由於羊毛可吸濕放熱以延緩運動後汗氣（液）所造成的冷傷害，聚酯纖維有快速蕊吸功能；織物結構選用可提升吸濕排汗效能的移環組織，因此本研究設計5種凸紋結構搭配混紡比例共10款布樣。以AATCC 195織物液態水分傳導性能檢測、CNS 15659-1紡織品吸濕速乾性能評估之乾燥速率試驗與ISO 11092 RCT熱阻抗試驗，探討織物綜合性能。研究結果顯示T/W50/50小菱紋結構布樣，其綜合吸濕性能最佳，T/W50/50大菱紋結構次之。本研究推測蕊吸點以菱形織紋排列，形成連續水分傳遞渠道，該條件下可促進水分在濕潤織物表面後快速擴散與傳導。乾燥性能以T/W50/50大菱紋結構最佳，T/W50/50小菱紋結構次之，本研究歸納在單位面積下，織物由吊目與出針針法形成的疊環蕊吸點愈多，水分殘餘率愈高。熱阻抗性能以T/W70/30與T/W50/50由凸紋結構－隔1針方式織造的兩組最佳；由T/W70/30所織成的大、小菱紋結構第二、T/W50/50小菱紋結構第三。綜合織物三項性能，T/W50/50小菱紋結構布樣最適冷情境使用，可提供穿著者液態水快速蕊吸、擴散，以及羊毛吸濕放熱性能搭配菱紋形凸紋結構，所提供的輕量保暖機能。

關鍵字

羊毛聚酯混紡針織物；濕度管理；熱阻抗；移環針法

並列摘要

This study, two blend ratios of wool and polyester, namely 70/30 and 50/50, were intended for manufacturing fabric structures individually for cold weather clothing, especially base layer. Wool contributes well moisture absorption, and superior heat retention to fabrics; polyester is employed to increase wicking capability and diffusion ability and keep the skin dry. Ten specimens, featuring mesh structures used to improve the efficiency of water transmission and 3D properties used for provision of thermal insulation, were prepared for the moisture management testing, moisture drying testing and thermal resistant testing, following the standard AATCC 195, CNS 15659-1 and ISO 11092. It was observed that fabric T/W 50/50 featured small diamond patterns shows the highest OMMC value, the second highest is fabric T/W 50/50 with big diamond knitted structure. The behavior is mainly due to the diamond knitted structural properties that certainly facilitates the diffusion of water and shortened wetting time. In terms of moisture drying rate of fabric, fabric T/W 50/50 with big diamond knitted structure exhibits the highest drying rate, the second highest is fabric T/W 50/50 made of small diamond knitted structure. The results indicated that fabric constructed with high density of wicking points per unit area has a higher rate of moisture. In regards to thermal resistance, fabric T/W70/30 and T/W 50/50, with same rippled knitted structure (the needles of one course located opposite the spaces between the needles of next course), presented the highest values. In summary, fabric T/W 50/50 characterized by diamond knitted structure has better moisture management capability; meanwhile, it provides good insulation at low weight by wool, a specific chemical reaction called heat of sorption within the wool's structure, which generates heat as water molecules are bound and absorb the body heat for wearers preventing from hazards of cold environment.

並列關鍵字

Wool/Polyester blended knitted fabric ； moisture management ； thermal resistance ； transferred stitch

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