Development of an Assay Method for Natural Products Containing Cosmetics (Ⅱ)-Licorice

含天然物成分化妝品檢驗方法開發(Ⅱ)－甘草

溫國慶(Kuo-Ching Wen) ； 陳信君(Hsin-Chun Chen) ； 張靜怡(Ching-Yi Chang) ； 林雅姿(Ya-Tze Lin) ； 徐素蘭(Su-Lan Hsiu) ； 江秀梅(Hsiu-Mei Chiang)

《藥物食品分析》 19卷2期 (2011/06) Pp. 230-237

摘要

This study established a quantification method for cosmetics containing licorice. During pretreatment, methanol was used as a solvent for extraction of lotion products and a salting-out method with a photodiode array detector for emulsions and creams. A gradient high performance liquid chromatographic method was established to determine liquiritin, glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid in licorice-containing cosmetics. Samples were analyzed by gradient elution with a mobile phase containing acetonitrile and 1% phosphoric acid at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min. Calibration curves of the three compounds were constructed in the range of 5.0-50.0μg/mL in glycerin solution and 2.5-100.0μg/mL in emulsion and cream. The correlation coefficients were all above 0.994. The average recoveries of these three compounds were 88.8-07.4%, 91.7-104.1% and 95.6-105.5% in glycerin solution, emulsion, and cream, respectively. The analytical method was further validated and employed in the assay of the commercial products. The results showed that glycyrrhizin could be detected in licorice extracts. With regard to the quantification of marker components in commercial products, glycyrrhizin (16.8 to 113.4μg/mL) was detected in 3 out of 7 licorice-containing commercial products. Glycyrrhizin was the most abundant component in licorice, while other marker compounds were not detectable, probably due to low contents or extensive dilution. The method developed in this study can he applied to commercial cosmetics containing licorice for the assurance of product quality.

關鍵字

化壯品 ； 甘草 ； glycyrrhizin ； liquiritin ； glycyrrhetinic acid

並列摘要

This study established a quantification method for cosmetics containing licorice. During pretreatment, methanol was used as a solvent for extraction of lotion products and a salting-out method with a photodiode array detector for emulsions and creams. A gradient high performance liquid chromatographic method was established to determine liquiritin, glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid in licorice-containing cosmetics. Samples were analyzed by gradient elution with a mobile phase containing acetonitrile and 1% phosphoric acid at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min. Calibration curves of the three compounds were constructed in the range of 5.0-50.0μg/mL in glycerin solution and 2.5-100.0μg/mL in emulsion and cream. The correlation coefficients were all above 0.994. The average recoveries of these three compounds were 88.8-07.4%, 91.7-104.1% and 95.6-105.5% in glycerin solution, emulsion, and cream, respectively. The analytical method was further validated and employed in the assay of the commercial products. The results showed that glycyrrhizin could be detected in licorice extracts. With regard to the quantification of marker components in commercial products, glycyrrhizin (16.8 to 113.4μg/mL) was detected in 3 out of 7 licorice-containing commercial products. Glycyrrhizin was the most abundant component in licorice, while other marker compounds were not detectable, probably due to low contents or extensive dilution. The method developed in this study can he applied to commercial cosmetics containing licorice for the assurance of product quality.

並列關鍵字

licorice ； glycyrrhizin ； liquiritin ； glycyrrhetinic acid ； cosmetics