臺灣糕餅的演變：做餅發展之探索

The Evolution of Taiwanese Pastries: A Journey into the World of Pastry Making

陳貴凰(Kaui-Hwang Chen) ； 許素鈴(Su-Ling Hsu)

《輔仁民生學誌》 18卷2期 (2012/12) Pp. 87-110

https://doi.org/10.29440/FJJHE.201212.0005

摘要

臺灣糕餅承襲漢族移民與在地人文風情時間超過百載，在百年老店常見糕餅店的縱跡。糕餅製備過程－做餅工藝是深具在地特色，糕餅師以古老技術利用簡易器具，憑藉著智慧與努力，讓糕餅在臺灣開枝散葉。故本研究旨在瞭解時代變遷下臺灣做餅脈絡之樣貌，針對熟悉做餅專家10位進行深度訪談蒐集資料分析後，發現做餅由火烤開始，隨著設備工業發展相得益彰，造就科技化量產、糕餅品質穩定，而麵、糖、油是做餅三大元素，其中外在糕皮決定糕餅種類，內在餡料蘊含糕餅靈魂，多樣多味原料出現異國風。每個糕模造型暗藏玄機，譜出一糕一印一故事，木製印模使用恆久遠，刻上店名代表品質保證，隨著自動化機械量產人力減少。在糕餅包裝上，由古味食足原餅重現到方便行事紙袋包裝、裝進紙盒完整好攜帶、港式糕餅帶動鐵盒包裝，發展至今裡應外盒法規也得顧，雖然呈現包羅萬象，但仍包住糕餅好滋味。

關鍵字

糕餅 ； 做餅 ； 飲食文化 ； 烘培歷史

並列摘要

Pastry making has been part of Taiwanese culture for over a century, since the Han immigrated to the island and localized their cultural heritage. Today, pastries can easily be found in many century-old shops. The production process of pastries-the art of pastry making, is full of local color. Pastry chefs use ancient techniques and simple tools to disseminate the art of pastry making across Taiwan through their wisdom and persevering efforts. The purpose of this study was to understand the history of pastry making in Taiwan over the ages by conducting in-depth interviews with ten experienced pastry chefs. Based on the data analysis, this study found that pastry making began with traditional fire ovens, and then the industry expanded with the industrialization of baking equipment, and resulted in contemporary technological mass production, with a production mode that ensures consistent quality. The three major elements of pastry making are flour, sugar, and oil. The shell determines pastry type, it is the filling that gives the pastry its flavorful soul, and the availability of diverse ingredients produces various flavors. Each type of pastry mold contains a history of its own, such as long-wearing wooden molds, which are often carved with store names and are emblems of quality guarantee, but are slowly disappearing with the popularization of mass production and shortages in labor. In terms of packaging, traditional wrappings were replaced by easily disposed paper packaging, and boxes began to be used for easy transportation. The popularity of Cantonese pastries brought on the trend of metal boxing, and today, certain dimensions must be followed in the art of pastry packaging. Nevertheless, even though packaging styles may widely differ, they remain the same in that all serve to preserve full flavor and delicious taste.

並列關鍵字

pastries ； pastry making ； food culture ； history of baking