漫遊者的飲食散文－試論舒國治的飲食書寫及其建構新典律的可能性

晚近以來，舒國治「既自私又舒適」的「舒式／適」體散文受到不少矚目，亦開展了當代旅行／飲食散文創作的新向度。本文擬在此基礎上，進一步探討其散文開展新典律即「漫遊者的飲食散文」的可能性。簡言之，就當代飲食散文之發展而言，由唐魯孫與途耀東的懷舊式飲食散文，發展至林文月《飲膳札記》乃至蔡珠兒《南方絳雪》系列作品是一大轉變。而焦桐兼擅飲食文學創作與研究的專業形象，又迥別於前輩作家之懷舊特質。而舒國治獨特之「漫遊者」的閒散風格，又是後出轉精的一例。是以，本文擬就此以考察其飲食散文所表現的可能的新典律(canon)有無建構之可能。首先論及舒國治做為一名城市漫遊者的覓食之旅，其文本如何呈現生活小吃？接著討論舒國治在走路生活（旅行）中的飲食，其文本如何展現這些隨遇而安的吃喝。再者，透過這些文本，以討論舒國治這一「漫遊者的飲食散文」的特質，並由此說明它與前此閒適小品之散文傳統的關聯，以及它與當代其他飲食散文之異同何在。最後並試論此一書寫型態是否能夠建構為一種新的飲食散文之創作向度？這是本文擬達成的研究標的。

關鍵字

漫遊者；舒國治；飲食散文；飲食書寫；現代散文

並列摘要

Recent years, as Shu Guozhi's ”Shu's style/Fitness” essays-”both selfish and comfortable”-by a lot of attention, has launched a new dimensions of contemporary travel/dietary prose. On this basis, this paper intends to further explore the prose to launch a new canon-that is, ”Dietary prose of the flaneur” possibilities. In short, the development of modern dietary prose, from the Tang Lu Sun and Lu Yao-tung's nostalgic dietary prose, developed to Lin Wen-Yueh's ”Dietary notes,” even Tsai Chu Erh's ”South Jiangxue” series is a major change. Jiao Tong have the professional image both for proficiency of dietary literature's writing and reserch, but also utterly different from older writers' nostalgic qualities. Shu Guozhi's unique ”flaneur's” idle style is fine after the example of a turn. Thus, this paper intends to examine the performance of its dietary prose possible construction of a new canon whether the possible. First discussed the foraging trip of Shu Guozhi as a city flaneur, the works how to present the life of snacks? Then discuss the diet of walk (travel) life of Shu Guozhi, the text how to display these adaptable diet. Moreover, throughthese works, to discuss Shu Guozhi ”Dietary prose of the flaneur” character, and thus explain it with this leisurely prose pieces of the traditional association, as well as its other contemporary dietary prose what similarities and differences. Finally, this writing style is able to construct a new dietary prose for the creation a dimension? This is the subject of this study to be reached.