功能性複合配方之乳霜狀化妝品其品質之穩定性探討

Evaluation of the Stability of Multi-functional Cosmetic Cream Formulations

蔡豐仁(Fon-Ren Tsai)

《美容科技學刊》 4卷2期 (2007/09) Pp. 31-40

https://doi.org/10.30001/JIES.200709.0005

摘要

化妝品常用的功能性的有效成份如：VitC-palmitate、VitA-palmitate、Lipoic acid、CeramideⅢ、Cholesterin、Gelatin、Wheat germ oil、Avocado oil及各種植物萃取液是化妝品配方中常見的成份，但上述成件較易産生變質不易保存，因此在實務上以上述成份配製成乳霜狀化妝品，放置一段時間後常發生有非酵素性的褐化反應產生進而影響品質的穩定性及成品的賣相。推測其褐化的速渡應與乳化後的黏稠度有所關聯，因為黏稠度與流動性有關，而流動性與成份的氣化速率又成正相關。因此，本實驗係以Glyceryl stearate/Stearic acid為乳化系統，以抗老化之功能性成份配製成複合配方，並以不同黏稠度之配製以測試其褐化的速度並配合抗褐化劑的使用，以探尋產生最低褐化速度的最佳條件。結果顯示稠度並不會影響硫辛酸之褐化速度，但對於添加25%抗褐變劑Sodium、sulfite則有相當明顯可延緩褐化的速度。

關鍵字

黏稠度viscosity ； 褐化browning reaction

並列摘要

The alpha-Lipoic acid, VitC-palmitate, VitA-palmitate, Ceramide Ⅲ, Cholesterin, Gelatin, Wheat germ oil, Avocado oil and various plant extracts are popular ingredients as used in cosmetic formulations. In fact, some non-enzymatic browning reaction cases have been found in most cosmetic products containing these above ingredients. The development of browning reaction may be due to the lower viscosity. Thus, we will try to find out the best viscosity conditions to reducing the browning reaction by using Glyceryl stearate /Stearic acid emulsive system. The results presented herein indicate that the higher viscosity could not inhibit the browning reaction. However, the browning reaction could be reduced obvious by using sodium sulfite at very low concentration (0.25%). The sodium sulfite is an inorganic salt that function as reducing agents in cosmetic formulations.

並列關鍵字

Lipoic acid ； Viscosity ； Browning reaction

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