雪耳水萃精華液的配方安定性及皮膚保濕功效評估

Evaluation of formulation stability and moisture effects of essense containing Auricularia fuscosuccinea, white strain water extract

薛秋燕(Chiu-Yen Hsueh) ； 陳敬宇(Ching-Yu Chen) ； 詹錦豐(Chin-Feng Chan)

《弘光學報》 72期 (2013/12) Pp. 43-53

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.201312.72.05

摘要

本研究以新鮮雪耳水萃物凍乾（WAF-W）並調製成精華液。雪耳水萃精華液經-5oC、25oC、45oC及加速溫度循環測試的安定性測試3個月，產品氣味、顏色、pH值及混濁度沒有明顯改變，此外產品也無結晶及沉澱的現象。11位受測者參與為期四週的皮膚保濕試驗，左半臉使用含市售耳類保濕成分精華液，右半臉使用雪耳水萃精華液。皮膚的經皮水分散失率（TEWL），在使用前為12.16，在使用雪耳水萃精華液2週及4週後，分別下降到9.09及6.91。皮膚的狀態從原來的健康狀態（TEWL值10-15）變成非常健康狀態（TEWL值0-10）。皮膚的含水量在使用前為76.92，在使用雪耳水萃精華液後2及4週後，分別上升至77.66及86.42。而含市售的耳類原料的精華液，在使用2週及4週後，經皮水分散失率（分別為12.73及11.77）及皮膚的含水量（分別為73.1及79.78）與使用前相比也都有改善的情形，但都不如雪耳水萃精華液。本研究顯示雪耳萃取物在配方具有良好的安定性及具良好保濕功效，可開發為化妝品及皮膚外用原料，並深具潛在價值。

關鍵字

雪耳 ； 安定性 ； 經皮水分散失率 ； 皮膚保水力

並列摘要

In this study, water extract of fresh lyophilized Auricularia fuscosuccinea (Montage) Florow, white strain (WAF-W) was prepared and formulated to essence. The stability of WAF-W essence was evaluated by -5oC, 25oC, 45oC, and accelerated temperature cycling test for three months. The product did not show significant changes in smelling, color, pH value and turbidity. There were also no crystallization and precipitation observed. Eleven subjects were participated in a four-week skin moisturizing in vivo trial. Left face was applied with commercially available era mushroom (WSK) essence and the right face was applied with WAF-W essence. After two and four week treatments, skin transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in the left face was reduced from 12.16 to 9.09 and 6.91 respectively. The skin health status from healthy (TEWL value 10-15) becomes very healthy state (TEWL values 0-10). After two and four week treatments, left face skin hydration was greatly increased from 76.92 to 77.66 and 86.42, respectively. The WSK essence also improved TEWL (12.73 and 11.77 respectively) and skin hydration (73.1 and 79.78, respectively) in the right face after two and four week treatments, but not as good as the effects of WAF-W essence. This study shows WAF-W exhibit good formulation stability and moisturizing effect. It has potential to be developed as a topical material for cosmetics and dermatological medications.

並列關鍵字

A uricularia fuscosuccinea (Montage) Florow ； white strain ； Stability ； transepidermal water loss ； skin hydration

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