γ-PGA凍晶微脂粒於化妝品安定性之研究

The Stability of γ-PGA Freeze-Crystal Liposomes in Cosmetic Applications

陳麗妃(Li-Fei Chen) ； 陳麗舟(Li-Chou Chen)

《美容科技學刊》 7卷3期 (2010/09) Pp. 77-90

https://doi.org/10.30001/JIES.201009.0007

摘要

實驗主要探討以薄膜／超音波振盪法製備γ-PGA微脂粒及以冷凍乾燥研發的γ-PGA微脂粒凍晶配方，不同儲存溫度及不同時間之安定性，並評估γ-PGA凍晶微脂粒做成化妝品凝膠，對皮膚之安全性與皮膚保濕有效性之差異。實驗結果以薄膜／超音波振盪法製備的γ-PGA微脂粒，平均粒徑在77.5nm~93.8nm之間；γ-PGA凍晶微脂粒，平均粒徑在92.8nm~152.1nm之間。在安定性方面，不論是γ-微脂粒或γ-PGA凍晶微脂粒，儲存於室溫環境下較為不安定。將含γ-PGA凍晶微脂粒製成之凝膠，經離心機離心30分鐘，在溫度50℃、4℃以及循環變溫的條件下，儲存2個月後，各組配方均無分離現象產生，且無變色、變味之情形出現，顯示將γ-PGA凍晶微脂粒製備成凝膠，具有良好的安定性。在有效性方面，以各組配方在塗抹90min後和測試前相比較，對皮膚含水量均具有保濕效果。在過敏性及安全性評估方面，皮膚經由過敏測試貼布進行72小時的測試結果，皮膚均無過敏現象且無紅腫情形產生。

關鍵字

凍晶微脂粒 ； γ-PGA ； 安定性 ； 保濕

並列摘要

The primary purpose of this experiment was to investigate the stability of γ-PGA liposomes and freeze-dried γ-PGA liposomes stored at different temperatures and for different periods of time, as well as to assess the differences among the cosmetic gel products made of γ-PGA freeze-crystal liposomes in terms of their efficacy on skin hydration and safety. The experimental results revealed that the γ-PGA liposomes prepared by the thin-film sonication method had an average particle size of 77.5 nm-93.8 nm, while the average particle size of γ-PGA freeze-crystal liposomes ranged between 92.8 nm-152.1 nm. In terms of stability, both γ-PGA liposomes and γ-PGA freeze-crystal liposomes demonstrated less stability when being stored at room temperature. No phenomena of separation were observed in all of the formulas, and the colors and odors remained unchanged after the gel products made of γ-PGA freeze-crystal liposomes were centrifuged in a centrifuge for 30 minutes and then stored at 50℃, 4℃ and a cyclically changing temperature, respectively, for 2 months. This result indicated that the gel made of γ-PGA freeze-crystal liposomes exhibited excellent stability. The results of stratum corneum moisture measurement before application and after each formula had been applied for 90 minutes proved that all of the formulas had the skin moisture retention effect. As for skin irritation and safety, there were no signs of irritation, redness, or swelling after a 72-hour skin irritation patch test, thus indicating that it is safe to use the γ-PGA freeze-crystal liposomal solutions.

並列關鍵字

freeze crystal liposome ； γ-PGA ； stability ； hydration

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