對話與分享－北宋飲食詩歌情調與意趣的轉變

Dialogue and Sharing: Transformations of Sentiment and Interest in Northern Sung Dynasty Poems on Food and Drink

陳素貞(Su-Chen Chen)

《中國飲食文化》 3卷1期 (2007/01) Pp. 41-80

https://doi.org/10.30152/JCDC.200701.0002

摘要

本文主要討論北宋文人如何藉著飲食的唱酬與贈饋－如歐陽修、梅堯臣等人的河豚詩話、梅堯臣的雙鱖會與河鯉膾宴，以及蘇門詩友宦旅中的贈饋相扶－所提供的特殊的文學創作場域，同時藉助、參考法國社會學家馬諧•牟斯(Marcel Mauss)《禮物：舊社會中交換的形式與功能》的部分觀點，來討論北宋文人如何透過飲食，形成味蕾與文學的對話思考、記憶與情誼的共食分享、接納與詮釋的循環美學，完成另類、特殊的對話與分享，從而凝聚共同的文學意識與集團情感。

關鍵字

北宋 ； 飲食詩歌 ； 對話 ； 禮物 ； 報稱

並列摘要

This article is primarily a discussion of how literati during the Northern Sung made use of their responses to prestations of food and drink to open up a special literary creative space. Examples include poets such as Ouyang Hsiu and Mei Yaochen and their poetic discourse on pufferfish, Mei Yaochen's 'Banquet of Two Mandarin Fish' and 'Minced River Carp Banquet,' and the prestations of the poetic friends of Su Shih and travelling officialdom. At the same time, the article enlists the aid of a number of insights drawn from the theory of the gift as articulated in the classic work of the great French sociologist Marcel Mauss, Essay on the Gift: the Form and Function of Exchange in Archaic Societies (1923-24), in order to discuss how literati in the Northern Sung, through food and drink, were able to form an aesthetic devoted to the prestation, reception, and explication of shared comestibles, leading to a dialogue between tastebuds and literature that involved thoughtful reflection, remembrance, and friendship. This created an unusual dialogue and form of commensality that led to the formation of a common literary consciousness and common group sentiments.

並列關鍵字

Northern Sung ； dietary poet ； dialogue ； gift ； prestation

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