飲食習俗與族群邊界－新疆飲食文化中的例子

本文以新疆的食馕與忌食豬肉爲例，說明飲食習俗的相同和相似性，常常會成爲拉近各族群心理距離的重要因素；相反的，飲食習俗之間的差異－經由人們的客觀實踐與主觀判別－則可能造成族群間的心理隔閡與現實距離。這是由於在人類文化習俗中，飲食常被賦予身體隱喻－人們想像，相同的飲食造成共同身體，飲食差異造成身體區分。某些飲食習俗被「根本化」而納入一族群之文化實踐中，它們便被賦予特殊族群文化意涵，成爲其對內傳承傳統、凝聚成員，對外設定邊界的象徵符號。藉著新疆之維族、漢族之飲食習俗探討，本文說明維、漢二族之間在飲食文化上有共同之處，也有相互欣賞與包容；漢族喜食豬肉，此刻板化印象並非事實，至少它過於簡化實情。

關鍵字

維吾爾族；飲食禁忌；族群邊界；新疆；新疆漢人

並列摘要

Taking the consumption of Central Asian bread and the taboo on pork consumption as case studies, this article examines how similarities in dietary culture can often be a major factor in reducing the psychological distance between ethnic groups. However, the differences in dietary customs-through people's objective practices and subjective judgementscan also create a sychological gulf and a real distance between ethnic groups. This is because in human cultural practices diet is often made a symbol of the body-people imagine that similar forms of diet create a similar kind of body, while dietary difference creates bodily difference. Some dietary customs are deemed fundamental, and are incorporated into the cultural practice of an ethnic group; they are endowed with distinctive ethnic cultural connotations, and become symbolic marks that are transmitted and passed down and consolidate group membership internally and serve to fix boundaries externally. Through an examination of the dietary customs of Uygurs and Han, the article demonstrates that both groups have commonalities in the realm of dietary culture and exhibit mutual admiration and tolerance in this area: the notion that Han Chinese love eating pork is a fixed stereotype that does not reflect reality, or is an excessive simplification at the very least.