禍福從天降－南京小龍蝦的環境政治

(Mis) Fortune Comes from the Heaven: Nanjing Little Lobster and the Politics of Environment

張展鴻(Sidney C.H. Cheung)

《中國飲食文化》 6卷2期 (2010/07) Pp. 1-34

https://doi.org/10.30152/JCDC.201007.0001

摘要

對於近年流行於中國大陸的食物－南京小龍蝦，存在著多種不同的看法和理解。有人說這些生長在淡水河流一帶的小龍蝦是蓮花以外「出淤泥而不染」的君子，但也有人認爲小龍蝦曾經是日本人爲破壞江蘇一帶的水稻而遠道帶來的小特工，甚至是日本侵略者在南京發動細菌戰時用來清理屍體的天然清道夫。大家一方面知道小龍蝦是生命力強得足以在骯髒的排水溝傳宗接代，另一方面大家近年對它另眼相看，配以多種香料加上煮熟後其紅彤彤的外貌，很多人視之爲美食佳餚。尤有甚者，在距離南京不遠的地方－盱眙，地方政府不但興建龍蝦博物館，甚至每年舉辦大型（國際）龍蝦節，希望藉此打造一個全國性的地區品牌，爲盱眙龍蝦提高知名度從而推動農村經濟和生態旅遊的發展。而當地老百姓更相信跟小龍蝦有關的經濟活動，可以爲他們帶來美好的明天。但究竟小龍蝦爲盱眙老百姓帶的是禍還是福呢？而盱眙的農村經濟是否得以藉此開花結果爲當地人民作出一種可持續發展的產業？本文是以人類學的田野考察法，深入盱眙訪問小龍蝦的生産者和銷售者，從而了解大陸這項已發展約十年的新農產品和地方社會的關係。另外，藉著盱眙的社經變化和農業改革這一案例，應可以一窺經濟改革開放過程中的中國社會，其所出現的城鄉互動變化契機何在？從而對小龍蝦這一新口味的出現，或可得到一個反思的機會。

關鍵字

克氏原螯蝦 ； 盱眙小龍蝦 ； 三農問題 ； 農村經濟改革

並列摘要

Recently, mainland Chinese have come to have different ideas about a fashionable food-Nanjing Little Lobster. Some people think the main ingredient of this spicy dish lives in muddy places but has a good seafood taste; while some people remember it as an invasive species brought in by the Japanese in the 1940s and employed as a crop-destroying ”special agent” and also to clean up corpses after the Japanese unleashed germ warfare on the population. On the one hand, people know it can survive in drainage ditches even if the environment is polluted; on the other hand, people cook it with spices and make it a delicacy. In Xuyi in the Jiangsu area, there are a ”lobster” museum and a festival for the development of the local economy and ecotourism. Local people expect a better future with the agricultural production and promotion of the brand ”Xuyi Little Lobster,” but this article questions whether this is a move in the right direction for China's rural economic reforms. Making use of participant observation and interviews in order to examine individual and community responses toward production, promotion and consumption of crayfish, the article discusses how the introduction and cultivation of a new non-local food species has contributed to changes in farming methods, trading networks and local government policy in agricultural changes. With the ethnographical approach focusing on the changing mode of production, I seek to understand the effects of crayfish farming on Chinese farmers' lifestyles and future expectations, and to rethink the meaning of this development in the context of rural economic reform in today's China.

並列關鍵字

Procambarus clarkia ； Xuyi little lobster ； the Three Farming policies ； rural economic reform