古酒新瓶－全球化市場下的紹興酒

紹興酒作爲黃酒中的驕子，曾經是中國江浙一帶飯桌上必不可少的佐餐佳品，並且在儀式慶典中扮演了重要角色。二戰以後，北方的白酒和啤酒，却漸漸取代紹興酒而成爲江浙宴席中的寵兒。二十世紀九○年代，改革開放後，西方的葡萄酒成爲人們追捧的對象。能夠品評葡萄酒，尤其是法國的葡萄酒，更是身分的象徵。然而，近十幾年來「紹興酒文化」又有了復興的跡象，不但江浙商人高價競投陳年紹興酒的新聞不斷見報，「古越龍山」牌紹興酒的廣告，在江浙一帶更是隨處可見，還進入了中央電視臺每天晚間的黃金時間。本文試圖從這七、八十年來紹興酒的生產和消費的變遷過程，作一鋪陳－即述說紹興酒如何從一個家庭釀造和小酒莊的經營模式轉變爲國家企業，進而向市場化、品牌化和全球化轉化的經過。這個過程改變了黃酒的命運，也給黃酒帶來了尷尬的處境。一方面，紅酒文化的全球化使得品酒本身成爲一種文化和身分的象徵。愈陳愈香的「紹興老酒」，原本是老百姓的日常小酌和知識分子的深巷尋覓，現在受到社會，尤其是中產階級的追捧；另一方面，各種品牌成功的市場策略，將紹興酒打造成黃酒中的王牌，而黃酒則被塑造成中國本土酒的代表，這使得飲用紹興酒成爲「中國人的才情釋放」和「中國人的愛國熱忱」的表現。然而，價格的上升和大魚吃小魚的資本主義本質使得紹興酒在全球化的同時，也慢慢與本土文化意義脫離。最後，本文也著意於沉思污染及工業化進程，所帶來的對糯米生產和鑒湖水質的威脅，以及其對紹興酒產銷的潛在影響。

關鍵字

紹興酒；黃酒；市場經濟；全球化

並列摘要

Shaoxing wine, as the famed prodigy of Chinese yellow wine, used to be the indispensable item on the dinner tables of Zhejiang families. It also plays important roles in rituals and religious ceremonies. After the Second World War, hard liquor and beer have gradually replaced Shaoxing wine as the most popular alcoholic drinks across China. Since the 1990s, after being able to appreciate and drink red wine, especially French wine, became a status symbol, there has emerged a revival of ”Shaoxing wine culture.” Not only do the news of high auction prices of Shaoxing wine frequently hit the press, but advertisements of famous Shaoxing wine brands appeared in the peak hours of National TV. This article examines the changing patterns of production and consumption of Shaoxing wine in the past century or so, namely the impact of its transformation from family or small shop based production to large scale production of the state owned factories and to market production and global branding. On the one hand, the emergence of a middle class pursuit of a good bottle of aged Shaoxing wine is a result of a global wine culture which models after French wine as middle class ”taste.” On other hand, yellow wine has been constructed as the Chinese national drink, making the drinking of Shaoxing wine a symbol of ”Chinese patriotic sentiments.” Nevertheless, either making it national or global takes Shaoxing wine further away from its original cultural meaning which was rooted in its grassroots following and smaller scale production. Lastly, this paper explores the possible impact of pollution and industrialization on the quality of water and sticky rice, the two crucial elements in the making of Shaoxing wine.

並列關鍵字

Shaoxing wine ； yellow wine ； market economy ； globalization

國際替代計量

古酒新瓶－全球化市場下的紹興酒

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