風土食材小旅行在當代美濃的展演實踐

A Practice Case Study on Regional Cuisine Tourism in Contemporary Meinong, Taiwan

洪馨蘭(Hsin-Lan Hung)

《中國飲食文化》 11卷1期 (2015/04) Pp. 37-66

摘要

飲食深受風土地理與文化條件所左右，人們也在經由旅行品嘗地方料理的同時，實踐著風土。本文嘗試透過人類學深描的方法，以近年在臺灣興起之風土食材小旅行，深化那些曇花一現的行程背後，在行走參訪與駐足品味之間所展現的鄉村文化劇場。本文案例緣起於全球樂活風潮，政策驅動了由城市端旅行社與故事作家們進行策劃，邀集鄉村裡的非營利組織與地方社團進行異業合作。此舉開創出鄉土食材的展演舞臺，也提供參與者經由引導走入了對當下生活的反思。這些活動強調食材的通透地氣、雙手長繭的勞動面孔、媽媽手藝的舌尖鄉愁、傳奇農村宴席的徹底體驗、豬舍改建民宿中搖滾與點心的魔幻寫實，始得小旅行在味覺展演之外，更全貌式地將地方的物質、社群與精神三種可見的文化內涵，鑲嵌於行程中，並引導旅行者參與當地二百年來的廟會席筵，體驗看不見的文化。本文透過物象、語彙、意識形態與時間等研究面向，細節地分析此類異業結合創造的料理小旅行之發展背景、規劃之策略與想像，以及實際進行如生態博物館的導覽體驗，並經劇場人類學關於鄉愁、文本與舞台、行為重建、歷史書寫等概念的梳理，整體思考食材小旅行對地方居民的自我認同、及共構歷史製作的積極意義。

關鍵字

美食觀光 ； 體驗旅行 ； 劇場人類學 ； 美濃

並列摘要

Cuisine is influenced by cultural and geographical conditions such as climate. Through tourism and travel, people can enjoy regional cuisines. Tasting farm products and dishes prepared in farming villages has become popular in recent years. This kind of tour is planned by city travel agencies and travel writers through a horizontal alliance with the NGOs or local communities. The horizontal alliance not only offers a new stage for exposure to new cuisines, but also triggers a revolution in personal taste by assisting in the introduction to a wider variety of experiences. Material culture, community culture and spiritual culture as reflected in regional cuisines are demonstrated through taste-based tourism comprising fresh ingredients, faces of hard-working people, homemade cooking, farm village dishes, and hostels renovated from pigsties. The tour guides the travellers to experience the traditional food culture of more than two hundred years ago, since the eighteenth century. This article, through images, language, ideologies and time, analyses the regional cuisine tourism in detail in respect to its development, planning strategies and imaginative projections. It also analyses how a tour experience, like visiting a biology museum, can actualize theories of theatre anthropology, including feelings of nostalgia, a sense of text and stage, restoration of behaviour, and historiography. To a certain degree, cuisine tourism creates positive self-identification and a new historical evolution for local residents.

並列關鍵字

cuisine tourism ； taste-based tourism ； theatre anthropology ； Meinong

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