傅培梅與阿基師之外：戰後臺灣的食譜出版趨勢與變遷

Beyond Fu Pei-Mei and Ah-Chi-Shi: The Tendency and Diversity of the Cookbook Publishing and the Changing Culinary Culture in Post-War Taiwan

潘宗億(PAN Tsung-Yi)

《中國飲食文化》 16卷1期 (2020/04) Pp. 115-177

摘要

皮爾契（Jeffrey M. Pilcher）在根據食譜文獻探析現代墨西哥國族料理與國族認同文化建構歷程的《墨西哥粽萬歲》一書中，兼重「本土」與「異己」因素，揭示本地與域外食材與料理隨時你儂我儂，你泥中有我，我泥中有你；墨西哥如此，臺灣亦復如此。本文在考察與歸納戰後臺灣至20世紀末的食譜出版趨勢與種類的基礎上，探析整體飲食文化風貌之變遷軌跡與脈絡，並跳脫國族料理分析視角，檢視臺灣食譜書寫內涵之多樣性與跨域交流現象。故此，本文在初步考察戰後臺灣食譜出版種類與趨勢性變化，及其政治、經濟、社會、文化、健康、醫療、族群脈絡之基礎上，進一步論證在「中國菜」與「臺灣菜」分類範疇之外，其實存在著其他專門分類食譜，並可見日常生活中的飲食文化變遷因素。再者，本文於論證過程中嘗試指出戰後臺灣各類食譜書寫之跨域交流元素，可為日後延伸探究之基礎。最後，本文進一步反思戰後臺灣食譜文本分析猶待檢視的問題，從中展望未來可以嘗試的研究方向。

關鍵字

食譜 ； 飲食文化 ； 中國菜 ； 臺灣菜 ； 戰後臺灣

並列摘要

In his influential book Que vivan los tamales!: Food and the Making of Mexican Identity, Jeffrey M. Pilcher has examined the complicated relationships between the national cuisine and the construction of national identity in Mexico. Not only does he emphasize the role that class, gender and the political-economic structure of capitalism played in shaping the national cuisine, he also pays attention to the native and the non-native factors. In other words, he suggests we cannot ignore the population flow from outside and the accompanying culinary cultural trends. Especially in the regions of multiple ethnic groups produced by colonization, the native culinary resources and styles interacted and integrated with the foreign ones. This was what happened in Mexico as well as in Taiwan. This article aims to examine the main trends and diversity of cookbook publishing between the post-war era and the end of the twentieth century in Taiwan. By doing so, it explores the transformation and configuration of culinary culture in post-war Taiwan. Going beyond the perspective of any notion of national cuisine, this article looks into the internal diversity of cookbook writing and publishing, and investigates the element of transnational communication in this phenomenon. It also examines various kinds of published cookbooks and their relationships with the political, economic, cultural, medical, and ethnic context by revealing that apart from the categories of 'Chinese cuisine/Fu Pei-Mei' and 'Taiwanese cuisine/Ah-Chi-Shi,' there were other categories of cookbooks. Furthermore, this article examines the role that cross-regional exchange played in the making of the culinary writing in post-war Taiwan. Finally, this article proposes and considers some questions important for the study of Taiwanese cookbooks for further research.

並列關鍵字

Cookbooks ； Dietary Culture ； Chinese Cuisine ； Taiwanese Cuisine ； Post-War Taiwan

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