＂Natural＂ Winegrowers: New Deal in the Wine World

In the 1980s in France, a group of winegrowers started to work in a ＂natural＂ way in reaction to the massive diffusion of synthetic chemicals and the introduction of what they saw as too much technology in the way wine was made. A network was gradually built up and eventually took off at the beginning of the 2000s. Now well-established in France, it keeps gathering new followers among wine professionals and consumers. The phenomenon is gradually affecting all the vineyards of the world and a worldwide network of ＂natural＂ winegrowers has recently been set up. Broadly speaking, ＂natural＂ winegrowing is based on the absence of chemical inputs and the principle of ＂least intervention＂, so as to empower the vine itself and produce ＂healthy＂ wines. Depending on the winegrowers, it can be associated with biodynamic practices to various degrees. ＂Natural＂ winegrowers' practices are dynamic and evolving. They have access to a set of tools and ideas that stem both from academic knowledge (for instance, the works on microbiology and chemistry of the winemaker and researcher Jules Chauvet) and from knowledge from the sensible world (in which biodynamics, as well as other forms of empirical and/or spiritual knowledge, can be classified). However, if the contributions of positivist sciences are not excluded, they do not serve the same purposes as in conventional winegrowing. These winegrowers' use of academic knowledge does not aim at mastering life to obtain better yields, but rather at obtaining a better knowledge of life to optimize the different forms of dialogue they can have with it. This is why they do not hesitate to combine different sources of knowledge to feed their experiments in the vineyards and the cellars. Integral to the praxis of ＂natural＂ winegrowing, this element of research takes an increasingly important role in the context of climate change. To create a better connection to living things, these winemakers borrow from ancient farming practices.

關鍵字

wine ； nature ； experiments ； climate ； senses

並列摘要

在1980年代的法國，一群釀酒葡萄種植者開始以｢自然｣的方式工作，以應對過多的合成化學物質及人為技術被大量應用在葡萄種植與釀造過程的現象。相關網絡逐漸在法國被建立起來，於2000年代初開始擴展，現在已經建立起良好的基礎，並持續吸引葡萄酒專業人士和消費者成為新的追隨者。這種新興的製酒模式正在逐漸影響著世界上所有的葡萄莊園，近來也形成一個｢自然｣農法的葡萄種植與酒釀造者組成的全球網絡。廣義上，｢自然｣農法的葡萄種植與酒釀造指的是不使用化學物質和｢最少干預｣的原則，以增強葡萄藤本身的活力，並生產出｢健康｣的葡萄酒。取決於葡萄種植與酒釀造者，｢自然｣的概念與生物動力學在實踐上有不同程度的關聯性。｢自然｣農法的葡萄種植與酒釀造者做法是動態的和進化的。他們從學術研究獲得相關知識與技術（例如同時身兼釀酒師和研究員的Jules Chauvet其微生物學和化學相關著作），也從實作獲得感官上的經驗知識（包括生物動力學與其他實證與靈性上的知識）。然而除了實證科學上的貢獻，｢自然｣農法也提供了與傳統釀酒法的不同參考面向。這些葡萄種植與酒釀造者對學術知識的使用，目的並不是為了獲得更好的收成，而是嚐試透過各種不同的對話形式，以獲得對生活的更深刻理解。｢自然｣農法葡萄種植與酒釀造的實踐與研究方式，在現今氣候鉅變的背景下日形重要。為了與自然界的生命體建立起更好的聯繫，這些釀酒師借鑒了古老的農作方式。這就是為什麼他們會毫不猶豫地結合不同的知識來源，在葡萄園和酒窖中不間斷地進行實驗。

並列關鍵字

葡萄酒；自然；實驗；氣候；感官

參考文獻

Foyer, Jean. 2018. “Syncrétisme des savoirs dans la viticulture biodynamique: Incorporation dans l’expérience et le sensible et trajectoire initiatique.” Revue d’anthropologie des connaissances 12.2: 289-321. (https://doi.org/10.3917/rac.039.0289.)

Rouvière, Catherine. 2016. “Migrations utopiques et révolutions silencieuses néorurales depuis les années 1960.” Cahiers d’Histoire. Revue d’histoire critique 133: 127-46.