藝術畫v.s女性服飾之跨領域服裝設計過程研究

A Cross-Field Fashion Design Creation Research on Art Painting vs. Female Costume Design

張翠園(Tsui-Yuan Chang) ； 盧希鵬(Hsi-Peng Lu) ； 羅天一(Tain-Yi Luor)

《習慣領域期刊》 8卷2期 (2017/09) Pp. 83-108

https://doi.org/10.3966/199891212017090802004

摘要

女性服飾風格隨著時代改變趨向於多元發展，現今社會中女性因職場的參與，社會地位也逐漸提升，女性服飾穿著不再只有強調柔美或浪漫氛圍，相對地簡潔有力的陽剛中性風格服飾也以時尚主流之姿搶攻市場。服裝是一種具有創作性、藝術性與感性的商品，亦是人類表達自身美感與喜好的藝術展現。「國際、跨域、創新」儼然已成為時尚新顯學。本研究運用習慣領域理論，藉由「八擴」與「九深」方式進行服飾創作，以藝術畫與流行女裝的「跨領域」整合設計進行創作。設計者以亞斯伯格藝術家羅得嘉《紅運花》油畫之生動筆觸，與男士襯衫之剛硬線條作為本創作之設計靈感，嘗試設計出具現代感之時尚服裝；素材上，則運用科技數位印花技術，將《紅運花》油畫完美地展現於雪紡及提花布料上。跨領域藝術服裝創作，以藝術、數位科技、設計等領域的融合，勾勒出另一股藝術風潮。研究顯示，服裝設計是一種多層面的互動行為，領域涵蓋創意發想、布花設計、色彩計畫、素材應用及款式設計等，每種領域之間的互動與關聯性密不可分。設計者可運用習慣領域之「八擴」與「九深」創作方式，達到完美的創意交換與發想、國際接軌、知識越界之跨域整合服裝整體展現。

關鍵字

服裝設計 ； 習慣領域 ； 跨界 ； 藝術畫

並列摘要

The female costume style tends to the diversified development along with the times change. Women's social status has been raised gradually because they are more occupationally involved nowadays. Female costume now competes in the market by focusing not only on soft or romantic atmosphere but also on masculine neutral style in the sense of simplicity and power. Costume is a product with sense of creation, art and sensibility as well as an expression of human sense of beauty and preferences. ＂International, cross-field, innovation＂ has simply become the new showroom of fashion. This research applies the ＂eight basic methods＂ and ＂nine principles＂ on the base of habitual domains to get on the cross-field costume design and creation combining art painting and fashion female costume. The designer tries to design the modern fashion costume with the inspiration from the vivid strokes of the oil painting— ＂Red Flower＂ by the Asperger Artist Lo, Techia and the hard lines of men's shirt. The digital printing technology is applied to display the ＂Red Flower＂ perfectly on the chiffon yarn and jacquard fabric. The cross-field artistic costume creation combines art, digital technology and design and outlines another artistic tide. According to the research, fashion design is a cross-field multi-level interactive behavior combining creative thinking, surface design, color plan, material application and style design. The interaction and relevance among all the fields is inseparable. The designer applies the ＂eight basic methods＂ and ＂nine principles methods＂ to achieve the cross-field overall image of the fashion with the perfect creation exchange, international standards, and knowledge trans-boundary.

並列關鍵字

fashion design ； habitual domains ； cross-field ； art painting