族群技藝與文化創意產業：以花蓮縣秀林鄉太魯閣族女性工藝編織者為例

本文以花蓮縣秀林鄉太魯閣族織布的族群技藝及文化創意產業為研究主軸，聚焦於女性織布勞動的生產、機制和其流變，檢視原住民觀光脈絡下織布做為文化創意產業的創新價值和其社會文化意涵。並進一步藉由深入訪談與實地田野參與觀察的方式，企圖回答在觀光資本主義的脈絡下，族群技藝如織布如何做為文化創意產業及原住民女性經濟自主與能動的可能性。本文從質性研究的取徑與觀光文化研究的視角，分析花蓮縣太魯閣族女性工藝編者如何藉由族群技藝與記憶，做為傳遞與生產族群文化的「中介者」和其展演的策略。研究指出：一方面織布的族群技藝在觀光消費的脈絡下，其「傳統」技藝與「現代」織物都可轉化為文化商品，再現族群與女性的價值和其自身的能動力；另一方面又因為消費市場的需求與影響所及，加速商品化對傳統織布文化脈絡的變異和斷裂。筆者們認為織布的族群技藝和文化創意產業進行融合與轉化的運用邏輯及其交織的複雜性，是當代原住民族研究不容忽視的議題。

關鍵字

花蓮縣秀林鄉；太魯閣族；織布；族群技藝；文化創意產業

並列摘要

This research explores the interconnections between ethnic handicrafts and the production of cultural industry. Using the Taiwanese Taroko weaving culture in Xiu-Lin County of Hualien as a main research site, 12 in-depth interviews with female weavers and participating weaving training course, this research demonstrates how tourism development impacts and changes traditional meanings of indigenous weaving culture. It examines the involvement of women whose weaving is connected primarily to symbolic ethnicity and offers a detailed description of the importance of weaving culture in gender performance for indigenous Taroko women. We argue the popularity of indigenous cultural reproduction, such as weaving, is not only a part of enacting gendered identities, but also reflects the cultural policy of the national government to enhance the economic development of minority tribes. Tourism development and cultural reproduction of weaving have created opportunities for Taroko people to demonstrate their abilities to renegotiate their ethnic identity and cultural heritage.