《世說新語》士人服飾所展現的魏晉風度

The Style of Wei Chin Period Shown in the Clothing of Official Class in "A New Account of Tales of the World"

王妙純(Miao-Chun Mang)

《嘉大中文學報》 5期 (2011/03) Pp. 29-59

https://doi.org/10.29892/JCLNCU.201103.0002

摘要

服裝是一個民族文化的展現，亦是人民思想意識和精神風貌的體現，同時也是物質文化與精神文化的綜合反映。《世說新語》廣泛反映了士族文人的各個生活層面，其中包括他們不可須臾離開的食衣住行。而士族文人是魏晉六朝這一時代舞台主角，士族文人的衣食住行便是魏晉時代潮流和精神脈搏的折射鏡。本文欲藉《世說》中魏晉名士之「服飾」事例，來一探魏晉士人的文化內涵與精神意趣，雖然「服飾」是偏向物質文明的表現，但從中卻可呈現當代士人的精神風貌及其文化意蘊。本論文共分為陸：壹、前言。貳、「首服」新尚──巾、帢、幘。參、「身服」新尚──衫、涼衣、褌。肆、「足服」新尚──屐。伍、「佩飾」新尚──麈尾。陸、結論。

關鍵字

《世說新語》 ； 物質文化 ； 魏晉風度 ； 服裝 ； 服飾

並列摘要

Clothing not only manifests the cultures of a people, but embodies its people's intellectual and spiritual life as well. It also reflects holistically the people's material and spiritual cultures. ”A New Account of Tales of the World” widely reflects various aspects of the life of official class, including the immediate everyday routines such as eating, dressing, housing, and means of transportation. The official class and literary men are the main actors on the stage of Wei-Chin Period; therefore, their daily routines exhibit the trends of the fashion and the spirit of its time. This article attempts to expound the cultures and the mentality of Wei-Chin Period through examining the clothing of the official class in ”A New Account of Tales of the World”. The clothing of a period belongs to its material cultures, yet it can nevertheless manifest the spiritual and cultural richness of the period.The article consists of six sections: (1) the preface; (2) headwear-chin, chia, tze; (3) clothes-san, liang-yi, hui; (4) footwear-chi; (5) accessories-chen; and (6) conclusions.

並列關鍵字

A New Account of Tales of the World ； material cultures ； the style of Wei-Chin Period ； garments ； clothing