從《金瓶梅》婦女服飾看明中後期「民間服制」

A Observation of the Folk Clothing System during Latter Ming Dynasty from the Women's Clothing in Jin Ping Mei

陳志昌(Chi-Chang Chen)

《藝術與文化論衡》 1期 (2010/09) Pp. 37-56

https://doi.org/10.29524/TVAC.201009.0003

摘要

明代是服制的社會，以服制明尊卑，甚而別華夷，就明代律法而言，即使是在物質條件許可的情況下，亦不可僭越，穿著不適合身份地位的服飾。然而從明代的文獻或小說來觀察，明人服飾的僭越已然成風。不過，當人民「僭禮越份」穿著不適合本份服飾出現的同時，依然不自覺地採用了定尊卑、貴賤的思維模式，這種階級社會的意識，成爲本文觀察「民間服制」實際運作狀況的焦點。
本文希望透過完成於明中後期的小說－《金瓶梅》中的婦女服飾，試圖觀察以「僭禮越份」爲常態的社會中，在民間以逾越服制規範爲常態的社會，如何自然形成一套約定俗成的「民間服制」，並試著明白「民間服制」的運作狀況。
透過本文的研究，我們可以得知明代僭越的運作法則，官方服制雖已被僭越，然而服制並不是亂成一氣，仍有脈絡可循：崩壞的官方服制成爲民間僭越過程中仿效的對象。此外，重新成形的服制除了吸收自官方服制的等第觀念外，亦同時加入了一些民間的要素，如流行、奇巧與技術取向。如此，結合了官方的服制概念與民間服飾的新要素互相融合，成爲明中後期「民間服制」運作體系的重要部份。

關鍵字

服制 ； 金瓶梅 ； 婦女 ； 服飾

並列摘要

Ming was a social of clothing system. Even if people had enough money, they could not wear clothes that didn't suit their status. According to literature, it showed that in Ming Dynasty people put on clothes that were above their status became one kind of custom. But when people put on the clothes that didn't suit their status, they adopted some ideas from the old clothing system unconsciously.
This article mainly observes the women's clothing system based on Jin Ping Mei, to show that during Latter Ming dynasty as people put on clothes that didn't suit their status as usual, the clothing system didn't become a mess. An new clothing system combined the concept of class from old system and the elements of fashion from civil society, replaced the old one and became an new one that we called it folk clothing system.

並列關鍵字

clothing system ； Jin Ping Mei ； woman ； clothing