化妝品基劑之紫外光吸光性對產品防曬效能之影響

UV absorbance of base ingredients and their influence on the UV protection of cosmetics

廖燕鈴(Yen-Ling Liao) ； 李珮琪(Pei-Chi Lee) ； 徐照程(Jaw-Cherng Hsu)

《弘光學報》 70期 (2013/06) Pp. 25-39

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.201306.70.03

摘要

本研究大量篩選化妝品配方中常用20種植物萃取液、油相之8種矽氧化合物、16種合成脂與19種植物油等基劑之紫外光吸光性，並探討基劑選擇對乳化配方SPF值的影響。實驗首先選用20種植物萃取原料進行測定，其中洋甘菊(Chamomile Extract)、鼠尾草(SageExtract)和常春藤(Ivy Extract)三種原料有較明顯的吸光特性，在340 nm的吸光值介於0.6-0.2，在300nm的吸光值介於0.8-0.4。篩選8種矽氧化合物的結果，發現唯有Dimethicone Copolyol在兩波段具有吸光性，340 nm的吸光值為0.54，300 nm的吸光值為0.59，其它矽氧化合物的吸光值都小於0.1。在合成脂部分選用16種進行比較，其中只有三異硬脂酸甘油酯(Glycerin triisostearate)於300 nm吸光值為0.1，其餘皆無明顯吸收。最後篩選19種植物油比較，其中玫瑰籽油(Rose Hips Oil)、芝麻油(Sesame Oil)、小麥胚芽油(Wheat Germ Oil)及蓖麻油(Castor Oil) 4種有較明顯吸收，在300 nm的吸光值介於1.4-0.4，玫瑰籽油與蓖麻油在340 nm的吸光值為0.3，顯現應用潛力。本研究以吸光特性極佳的油脂與萃取液入O／W乳化配方，並以體外(in vitro)法測定其SPF值，結果顯示O_R–lotion具有良好防護能力，為玫瑰籽乳液。而添加洋甘菊、鼠尾草及常春藤為O_RE–lotion（SPF值1.45）優於未添加（SPF值1.24）17%，ORE–lotion之UVA/UVB Ratio及Curve Area分別優於未添加18%及81%，因此防曬配方同時添加油脂與萃取液能提升防護之作用。研究顯示，油脂與萃取液具有促進產品防曬功能潛力，提供化妝品研發之重要參考。

關鍵字

化妝品基劑 ； 紫外光吸光性 ； 防曬係數 ； 植物萃取物 ； SPF值

並列摘要

This study aimed to explore the variation of the UV protection abilities of sunscreen products by adjusting the formula with different base oils and extracts, different combination of both raw materials under the same amount of sunscreen. Twenty kinds of plant extracts, eight kinds of silicone compounds, seventeen kinds of synthetic esters and nineteen kinds of plant oils were selected and investigated in this study. First, the results of various plant extracts showed chamomile extract, sage extract and ivy extract had obvious absorbance between 0.6-0.2 at 340 nm and between 0.8-0.4 at 300 nm. Among silicone compounds, only dimethicone copolyol had obvious absorbance is 0.54 at 340 nm and 0.59 at 300 nm, others were less than 0.1. Comparing the results of synthetic esters only glycerin triisostearate had obvious absorbance is 0.1at 300 nm. The results of plant oils showed rose hips oil, sesame oil, wheat germ oil and castor oil had obvious absorbance between 1.4-0.4 at 300 nm and 0.3 at 340 nm. The UV protection parameters of three kinds of plant oils as base components in same sunscreen formulation were compared. The results showed rose hips lotion had best protection ability. After addition of chamomile, sage and ivy extract mixture, SPF value even increase by 17%, the UVA/UVB ratio and curve area are superior to the not added by 18% and 81% respectively. According to our screening results, some palnt oils and extracts showed potential to be best choice as base component of sunscreen products.

並列關鍵字

Cosmetics base oil ； Plant extract ； SPF value ； UVA/UVB ratio

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