開發具有防曬功能之複方精油與護髮產品

Development of Complex Essential Oil and Cosmetics with Sunscreen Function

李奕增(Yi-Tseng Li) ； 楊尚軒(Yang, Shang-Hsuan) ； 薛祥明(Hsueh, Hsiang-Ming) ； 陳玟君(Wen-Chun Chen) ； 呂佳樺(Chia-Hua Lu) ； 易光輝(Kuang-Hway Yih) ； 王曉芬(Hsiao-Fen Wang)

《弘光學報》 86期 (2020/09) Pp. 63-75

https://doi.org/10.6615/HAR.202009_(86).0005

摘要

全球暖化大氣層變薄導致紫外光造成皮膚傷害， 因此市售的化學性防曬產品使用量大幅增加，也造成環境汙染及皮膚副作用之隱憂，故本研究將30款單方精油利用紫外光／可見光分光光譜儀（UV-VIS）測其紫外光吸收光譜圖後，挑選出在250nm～320nm吸光值前五名的白樺樹、冬青樹、安息香、甜茴香及肉桂皮調製成複方精油，以體外（in vitro）防曬係數測定法測定其SPF值，結果顯示含4%OMC、4%複方精油及4% Cyclomethicone護髮乳數據分別為8.45 ± 1.22、2.64 ± 0.35及0.94 ±0.01複方精油有相當於31%OMC的防曬效果。調製含有2%複方精油之護髮油塗抹於漂染後髮束並進行照射紫外光24h之褪色實驗，結果顯示2% OMC髮油組、2%複方精油組及空白組，其色差值分別為20.31±0.68、21.91±0.1及27.8±0.14，結果顯示複方精油有相當於78% OMC之預防毛髮褪色效果。另以氣相層析質譜儀（GC/MS）分析複方精油之主要化學成分為水楊酸甲酯72.59%，其共軛雙鍵為吸收紫外光所必需的結構。綜合上述結果，此複方精油具有調製為防曬產品之潛力。

關鍵字

複方精油 ； 護髮乳 ； 護髮油 ； 防曬係數 ； 褪色

並列摘要

The thinning of atmosphere and global warming have caused skin damage by ultraviolet. Therefore, the substantial increase in the use of commercially available chemical sunscreen products has also caused hidden concerns about environmental pollution and skin side effects. In this study, 30 essential oils were examined by ultraviolet/visible spectrometer. From the spectra, the top five are birch(Betula platyphylla Sukaczev.), holly(Gaultheria cumingiana.), benzoin(Styrax benzoin Dryand.), sweet anise (Foeniculum vulgare.) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia.) essential oil in the range of 250 to 320 nm absorbance value. The above mentioned five essential oils were compounded into a complex essential oil and its SPF value was determined by in vitro sunscreen coefficient measurement. The results showed that the data of 4% OMC, 4% complex essential oil and 4% cyclomethicone groups were 8.45 ± 1.22, 2.64 ± 0.35 and 0.94 ± 0.01, respectively. From the results of in vitro experiments, the complex essential oil has a sunscreen effect of 31% of OMC group. The hair oil containing 2% complex essential oil was prepared and applied to the dyed hair tress those were irradiated with ultraviolet light (300 nm) for 24h. The results showed that the difference between the colors of the 2% OMC hair oil, 2% complex essential oil and blank groups were 20.31±0.68, 21.91±0.1 and 27.8±0.14, respectively. The results showed that the complex essential oil contained 78% of OMC group preventing the hair from fading. In addition, gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC/MS) was used to analysis the chemical components of the complex essential oil and it were found that contained 72.59% of methyl salicylate. Based on the above results, the complex essential oil has the potential to be converted into a sunscreen product.

並列關鍵字

Complex essential oil ； Conditioner ； Hair oil ； Sun protection factor ； Discoloration

參考文獻

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