澳門菜的形成：葡萄牙、中山及東南亞的烹飪交匯

The Formation of Macau Cuisine: An Integration of Culinary Traditions of Portugal, Zhongshan, and Southeast Asia

何偉傑(Vincent W. K. Ho)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 221-238

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.11

摘要

雖然有云「食在廣州」，而香港也自稱為「美食天堂」;但同樣位於廣東珠江口的澳門，賭博業一支獨秀，文化古遺亦保存得比較完整，實為一水之隔的香港人心目中渡假吃喝玩樂的好地方。澳門在旅客的攝影機下，舊建築提供了異國風情及昔日情懷，而事實上澳門美食也能夠滿足這兩方面的樂趣。各地眾多來賓前往澳門滿足口腹，有深入了解澳門菜的文化內涵卻不多。澳門現在是廣東南部的一個小城市， 鄰近香港及廣州， 以其博彩旅遊業及特色美食吸引中外遊客。當年葡萄牙殖民者在十六世紀來到這個小漁村，把他們在伊比利亞半島的烹飪方式帶到華南。作者透過比較葡萄牙及土生葡人( Macaense )的菜式，分析住在澳門的葡萄牙人怎樣以廣東的食材，配以來自葡屬印度( India Portuguesa) 及馬六甲的香料，創造了澳門土生葡菜烹飪( Aculinaria dos Macaenses )的細節。在長達四個多世紀的中葡交往中，華人也從土生葡人身上學習烹調西餐的方法，並改變本來味濃及較為肥膩的特色，於是華人主理的澳門菜( Cozinha de Macau) 因此應運而生。十九世紀中葉以來華甫的動亂，令大量華人南遷移民到澳門，並且促使乳鴿及菊花肉等香山(中山)菜在澳門華人社會中扎根。甚至來源自中山的杏仁餅及豬油糕等，已成為代表澳門的遊客必買手信。最後本文作者分析二十世紀下半葉的多次緬甸及印尼排華事件，如何令這些逃避災禍的華僑在澳門的「三盞燈」區域大量開設餐館，並與鄰近的塔石區的泰國社群英食構成澳門菜之中的東南亞元素。由英國移民創辦的安德魯餅店( Lord Stow's Bakery )，在澳門創作「葡撻」( Pasteis de nata) 而竟然能夠令澳門華人瘋魔一時，也是一個奇特的異數。

關鍵字

澳門 ； 葡萄牙 ； 土生葡菜 ； 中山 ； 緬甸

並列摘要

There are an famous old saying, ＂if you want to eat in China, then go to Guangzhou.＂ ( Shi Zai Guangzhou 食在廣州) . Hong Kong also claimed herself as the ＂paradise of nice food ＂ (「美食天堂」) . Macau also located at the Pearl River delta and near to Guangzhou and Hong Kong. Macau attracted Hong Kong tourists by her gambling industry and nice preservation of historical buildings which make it as an ideal destination of vacation and enjoying nice cuisine. Tourists like to take photographs in Macau since it provided good examples of exoticism and nostalgia. In fact, the characteristics of Macau culinary are similar to these too. Since the Portuguese presence in Macau during mid-sixteenth century, they brought Iberian culinary tradition to South China. The paper will compare the Portuguese culinary in Iberia with Macanese culinary in South China in order to highlight the Portuguese's way to combine the spices from Portuguese India and Malacca with the local food from Guangdong to create the Macanese cooking. During four centuries of Luso-Sino cultural exchanges, Chinese learned the way of cooking from Macanese (local born Portuguese descents ) and improved it for the diet habit of local Chinese. A new fusion of cooking was formed which usually known as the so-called Macanese Cuisine (澳門菜) by tourists though the differences of those dishes may hard to define and even debatable. In 19th century, the social instability of South China brought many Chinese refugees to Macau which explained why Zhongshan (中山) county dishes and snacks like almond cake and chewy bites are so popular in Macau even nowadays. The refugees of anti-Chinese movements in Burma ( now Myanmar ) and Indonesia during the second half of the 20th century settled in a Oversea Chinese ghetto called ＂Three Lamps＂ (三盞燈) . Those restaurants ran by them as well as the restaurants owned by Thai people in Tap Seac (塔石) formed a larger district in Central Macau featured with Southeast characteristics. Lord Stow's Bakery is owned by a British immigrant who is famous for his ＂Portuguese Egg Tarts＂ Pasteis de nata). The popularity of such British adopted Portuguese snacks among Chinese in Hong Kong and Macau is also an interesting cultural phenomenon.