戰爭、食物、餐館－二次大戰期間的「鄉土食」與臺灣料理

War, Food and Restaurant: ＂Local Food＂ and Taiwanese Cuisine during the WWII Period

曾品滄(Pin-Tsan Tseng)

《中華飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第12屆 (2011/11) Pp. 295-331

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.91012.2011.12.15

摘要

本文論述臺灣的家庭料理或鄉土食如何在戰爭中扭轉其原本不受重視的地位，成為人們歡迎且尊重的菜餚，進而被詳細調查、紀錄、書寫，留下豐富的文獻資料，甚至從菜名、選材到烹飪方式等進行設計，成為宴會料理，出現在標榜「臺灣料理」的餐館或其他宴席場合的餐桌上。從而使得原來是匯集中國各省宴會料理的「臺灣料理」，具有更多在地風土色彩。雖然鄉土食運動隨著1945年戰爭的結束而消失，標榜「臺灣料理」的餐館也因各種因素而逐漸沒落，直到1970年代以前，「臺灣料理」不復為人們重視;但在戰爭與鄉土食運動期間，在臺灣的日本文化人與臺灣的知識者對臺灣飲食傳統(foodways)的巨細靡遺的文本化工作，為七十年前的臺灣家庭飲食，留下了極其珍貴的歷史紀錄，成為日後建構臺灣飲食傳統的一個重要的論述基礎。本文目的除了論證上述鄉土食運動的發展過程、影響及其歷史意義外，更試圖闡述日治末期一群醉心於保存、調查、研究臺灣民俗的文化人對於本土飲食傳統的關懷，和保存、發揚鄉土食的努力及其成就。

並列摘要

This essay explores the process Taiwanese local dishes were textualized and intellectualized during WWII, examining how the essence of ＂Taiwanese cuisine＂ was shifted from ＂a selection of Chinese cuisine＂ to a local food tradition. The textualization of Taiwanese local food during the wartime served as a crucial foundation on which the Taiwanese foodway can be understood nowadays. Along with the ＂Local Food Movement＂ promoted during the wartime Japan, some Japanese scholars and Taiwanese writers with enthusiasm of preserving Taiwanese local culture started to investigate and record Taiwanese local food and folk dietary culture in Taiwan. Their records include food ingredients, dishes in rural families, dining manners and cooking methods. Through the publication of folk magazines and books, various local food and family dishes, particularly those in rural families, were well textualized. In addition to textualization, one Taiwanese writer further held banquets of these local dishes in his restaurant - Shanshuiting (Mountain and Water House) --which was also a site Taiwanese artists and intellectuals gathered. Differed from most of the other Taiwanese restaurants during the Japanese colonial period, the dishes served in Shanshuiting were mainly local food, and female consumers were also welcomed. This essay argues that this restaurant has established a landmark of Taiwanese cuisine, embodying the early efforts of highlighting and preserving Taiwanese indigenous dietary culture.