Local Cuisine and Local Identity in Lukang, Taiwan

鹿港的地方美食與地方認同

廖紫均(Zu-Chun Liao)

《Collection and Research》 21期 (2008/12) Pp. 25-37

https://doi.org/10.6693/CAR.2008.21.3

摘要

With the development of the domestic tourism industry, a local cuisine has gradually formed and developed in Lukang, Chaung-Huang County, Taiwan. Although components of this local cuisine may share the same names as traditional local dishes, there are big differences between the traditional dishes and this one developed under the context of tourism. The traditional dishes in Lukang is similar to that of Quan Zhou (泉州) in southern Fijian province, China. In the 19th and 20th centuries, immigrants from Quan Zhou settled in Lukang and brought along their culture and cooking practices. Although it has passed through many generations since their arrival in Lukang, the cuisine remains very similar to the original. However, with the influx of tourists in the past few decades, commercial establishments developed new tastes which they refer to as local cuisine to attract tourists. The new tastes of this cuisine have enticed tourists and gradually have become a symbol of Lukang. Although it appears that local people identify with it, the support for this new local cuisine is based on the economic benefits derived from the tourism industry.

關鍵字

local cuisine ； tourism ； innovation of tradition ； Lukang

並列摘要

隨著觀光產業的發展，鹿港地方美食逐漸成形。乍聽之下地方美食與傳統的小吃似乎相同，事實上二者的差異甚大，因為前者是在觀光的脈絡下發展出來的。傳統的小吃是從泉州的飲食發展的，約在十九、二十世紀左右，移民先後將泉州人的文化與飲食習慣帶到鹿港，雖然在鹿港流傳好幾代，基本上還是維持原來的烹煮方式與風味。而因觀光產業而興起的地方美食，為了吸引觀光客，不論在煮食方式或口味上，皆以討好觀光客為主，經過媒體的推廣，遂成為代表鹿港的象徵。對於在地人來說，為了能夠帶來更多的經濟利益，在地人也認同這個新興的產業，將之視為在地傳統的表徵。

並列關鍵字

地方美食 ； 觀光 ； 創新的傳統 ； 鹿港