麺条の起源と伝播

Filamentous Noodles, ＂Miantiao (麵條) ＂: their Origin and Diffusion

石毛直道(Naomichi Ishige)

《中國飲食文化學術研討會論文集》 第3屆 (1994/12) Pp. 113-129

https://doi.org/10.6641/PICCFC.1-8.1994.03.08

摘要

一､小麦の伝播と麵条の起源 小麦が中栽において栽培植物化したとの説もあるが､華北平野で小麦が本格的に栽培されるのは西漢代になってからであり､西方から小麦とそれを製粉するための石磨が中国に導入されたと考えられる｡このときに､麺条が西方から伝搬したのではないかという可能性は､つぎの理由で否定される｡(a)小麦の伝播経路にあたる中央アジアの諸民族が､麺条は維吾爾族を介入して中国から伝来した食品であると認識していること｡(b中央アジアの諸民族は､麵条をlagmanとよぶが､これは拉麵に由来する名称であること｡中国における小麦食品をあらわす餅の文字は紀元前後にあらわれるが､餅の一種である湯餅から麵条が発生した。その原型は《釈名》の索餅､伝玄の《七謨》に記述された水引餅にもとめられる｡もっとも一般的な麺条である切麺の製法は唐代に普及した｡都市における飲食店の発達がめざましい末代は､麺条が大発展した時代で､現在食べられれる麵条の料理の主要な種類が出現している｡二､アジアにおける伝統的な麺条の種類と分布 麺条は小麦食品に起源するが､その後､米､蕎麦､緑豆などを原料とする麺条もつくられるようになった｡中国で発生し､アジア各地に伝搬した麵条を通文化的に考察する場合は､原料の種類にあまりとらわれずに､基本的な麺条制作技術によって分類することが必要である｡刀削麺のような特殊なものや､現代の工業的に製造される麵条を除外すると､つぎの5類に分類することが有効である｡(1) 拉麵系列 (2) 線麵系列 (3) 切麺系列 (4) 米粉．河漏麵系列 (4-a) 米粉系列 (4-b) 河漏麺系列 (5) 河粉系列 これら5系列のいずれも中国以外の場所に起源する証拠は見いだせなく､歴史の不明な河粉をのぞくと､それぞれの系列が中国のなかで発達した経過がわかっている｡したがって､アジアの麺条は中国に起源して､各地に伝搬したものと考えてよい｡その伝統的分布圏は､北はモンゴル､南はヒマラヤ南麓と東南アジア､西はカスピ海東岸､東は朝鮮半島と日本にいたる広大な地域である｡三､イタリアとの関係 西欧の麺粂食品はイタリアから伝播したものである。イタリアの麵条の制作技術は､中国の切麵にあたるものと､圧搾機をもちいて押し出して形成するものの2種類に大別される｡このうち､スパゲノティのように圧搾機を使用する技術は､16世紀にイタリアで独自に開発されたものである｡12世紀のシチリア島について記述したアラブ文献にのべられているittriyyahが､イタリアにおける麵条の初出である｡中世のアラブ文献にあらわれるittriyyahには､扞面杖を使用して切断したものと､小麦の練り粉を板の上で手で転がして､ひも状にしたものの2種類がある｡また､11世紀初頭にittriyyahとおなじ食品が､中央アジアのBukharaに存在していたことを物語るアラブ文献がある｡さきに述べたように､中央アジアには拉麵系列と切り麺系列の両方が分布することを考慮にいれたさい､中国起源の麺条が中央アジアを経由してアラブ圏にとりいれられ､さらにシチリアに伝播した可能性がある｡マルコ．ポーロが中国から直接麵条をイタリアに持ち帰ったという俗説は､種種の資料を検討した結果､後世のつくり話しといわざるをえない｡

並列摘要

I. Diffusion of wheat cultivation and the origin of ＂miantiao＂ There is a theory that wheat domestication originated in China. However, it was only after ath West ern Han Dynasty that wheatwas cultivated as the major crop on the central Chinese plain. It is more likely that the cultivation and rotary querus used to produce the flour had been jointly introduced to China from regions to the west of it. The idea that ＂miantiao＂ might also have been introduced with the cultivation is unlikely according to the following reasons; a) peoples of Central Asia along the wheat diffusion route to China have long been recognizing a legend of the Uyghur people that ＂miantiao＂ was introduced from china. b) A Uyghurword, ＂legman,＂ which means filamentous noodles, which has been commonly used among peoples of Central Asia, is thought to have derived from the Chinese ＂Larnian (拉麵).＂ The word ＂bing (餅),＂ meaning flour food first appeared in the records of the West Han Dynasty era around 200 B. P., and ＂miantiao＂ developed from ＂ tangbing (湯餅),＂ a type of ＂bing,＂ ＂ shuiyingbing (水引餅),＂ which first appeared in the third century record; and a type of ＂tangbing＂ is thought to be the very prototype of filamentous noodles. ＂Qiemian,＂ which is the most general noodle preparation technique today was established during the Tang Dynasty. The popularity of noodles as part of the daily diet spread further and many noodle shops became common in the cites during the Song Dynasty. II. Classification and diffusion of ＂miantiao＂ in Asia ＂Miantiao,＂ which was originally processed from wheat flour was similarly made from other cereals and beans. A classification according to tradi-tional preparation techniques, instead of materiales, was considered for cross-cultural analysis to obtain a clearer view of diffusion from China. According to preparation techniques there are five types of noodles: 1) ＂Iamian (拉麵),＂ 2) ＂xianmian (線麵),＂ 3) ＂qiemian (切麵),＂ 4) ＂mixian (米線)＂ or ＂heloumian (河漏麵)＂ and 5) ＂hefen (河粉)＂ The classification, however, excludes a very unique technique like ＂daoxiaomian (刀削麵),＂ and the contemporary factory-madenoodles. The development of these noodle preparations in China, with the exception of ＂hefen,＂ are traceable with sufficient written data. At the same time no data has been so far discovered which might establish their diffusion to China from other places of origin. lttherefore seems possible to postulate that all the noodle techniques known in Asia originated in China, and diffused to Mongolia to the north, Nepal, Bhutan and South-East Asia to the south, Korea and Japan to the east, and to the eastern shores ot the Caspian Sea to the west. III. The relation to Italian noodles Filamentous noodles in Europe originated In Italy. Two preparation techniques similar to those for ＂qiemian＂ and＂ heloumian＂ were know. Regarding the ＂heloumian＂ type of preparation the dough contained in a press machine was pressed by a board that is rotated the handle of an attached screw jack. This technique was devised independently in the 16th century to produce spaghetti-type noodles. The first Italian filamentous noodles was mentioned by an Arabic geographer in his work relating to Sicily of the 12th century. An Arabic word ＂ittriyyah＂ was used. Two types of ＂ittriyyah＂ were known according to Arabic literatures in the Middle Ages. One was prepared by being cut into shape after kneaded wheat flour dough had heen pressed flat. The other was prepared by rolling the dough out into a long rope-like shape on a board using the palm. Similar type food had already existed in Bukhara in Centarl Asia according to an Arabic doument written at the beginning of the 11th century. Considering that ＂lamian＂ and ＂qiemian＂ had diffused to Central Asia from hina, those data imply the possiblity that the ＂mian-tiao＂ originated in China was introduced to western Asia and the middle East via Central Asia before it reached further to Sicily. The well-known story that Marco Polo brought Chinese noodles and their preparation techniques home is nothing more than a mere legend.