Culinary Culture in Guangxi

Guangxi is not the home of any of the great culinary traditions of China, at least in the conventional sense. While the cuisines of Sichuan, Guangdong, Sha- ndong. Fujian, Hunan, and even Beijing are well known both in China and overseas, and easily recognisable by the labels Chuan, Yue, Lu, Min, Xiang, and ling on restaurant shop-signs (nowadays more than one is offered by the same restaurant), there seems to be no such thing as Guicai. This does not mean that people in Guangxi go without food. It does mean however that food in Guangxi tends to be described most often as a product of influences from elsewhere, or overlooked entirely. □ This means in turn that there has very little scholarly description of food in Guangxi. What follows, therefore, is more by way of an unsystematic and personal account of the topic than an objective overview. I would have to say that a truly objective and comprehensive discussion of this topic is probably not possible at this stage. Quite apart from the question of the presence or absence of an elaborated and systematised regional cuisine, there is the wider question of how such traditions (Chuancai, Jingcai and so on) fit into the food culture of an entire region. Gaining the wider overview of food culture among a variety of social classes (from the new rich to the migrant labourers), age cohorts, ethnic groups (of which there are around 14 in Guangxi), and distinct localities (over 60 counties) would be a major undertaking in itself. What follows, then, are personal observations that I think might be relevant to such an undertaking.

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