地方性食物展演建構策略－以「好好吃：臺灣飲食文化特展」為例

臺灣人講究飲食、精於烹調、追求美食，如何好好吃？是長久以來社會關注的議題。面對全球飲食革命、多元飲食文化和層出不窮的食安問題，近幾年來，臺灣各地的博覽會、文創園區、博物館、美術館、地方產業館、大學或學術機構，紛紛推出和食物相關的展演活動，以各個角度表達食物所交融碰撞產生的主／客、人／我、我群／異己、生產／消費等多元關係。本文除了嘗試理析臺灣社會發生之食物展演操作形式，背後可能傳遞的在地內涵，同時以國立自然科學博物館「好好吃：臺灣飲食文化特展」為例，深描特展團隊如何企圖呈現史前時期到當代多樣族群飲食的面向，述說臺灣在地飲食文化的故事，包括：食物扣連的生態和信仰傳統、社群身份識別、市場交換經濟等之生活經驗，爭議食物對後工業化社會生活和生態環境的影響。由於該特展從日常熟悉的經驗出發，以寓教於樂的方式，訴說閩南、客家、眷村等聚落雜居之大傳統與小傳統之間，飲食習慣之豐富文化內涵，涵蓋日常生活、歲時祭儀與生命禮俗等時期，兼及臺灣原住民飲食文化的智慧和特色，推出後受到廣大民眾的歡迎和迴響。因此，本文透過觀眾的參與和問卷回應，檢視其中隱含與展示文本的互文性，藉由地方知識複雜的符號與實踐，效驗博物館食物展演如何被想像、理解和建構的意義。

關鍵字

臺灣；飲食文化；博物館；展示

並列摘要

Taiwanese people pay attention to their diet, are proficient in cooking, and enjoy good food. How to eat well has long been a topic of social concern, especially in the face of the global diet revolution, diverse food cultures and food safety issues. In recent years, food-related activities and/or performances have appeared in expositions, cultural and creative parks, museums, art galleries, local industrial culture halls, universities and other academic institutions across Taiwan. From various perspectives, these express the relationships of host/guest, person/me, my group/the other, and production/consumption due to the blending and conflict brought about by food. In addition to analyzing the food-related exhibition forms in Taiwan, the aim of this paper is to convey the local connotations behind them. The National Museum of Natural Science's ＂Nom Nom Taiwan - The Story of Dietary Culture Exhibition＂ is taken as an example. It presents diverse ethnic diets from prehistoric to contemporary times and tells the stories of Taiwan's food culture, including food-connected ecologies and traditional beliefs, community identification, market exchange economy and other life experiences, and the impacts of food on post-industrial society and the environment. The starting point for this exhibition is a familiar daily activity, as it describes the rich food traditions in Minnan, Hakka and military veteran communities and the cultural connotations of eating habits. Rituals and customs for different stages of life and the wisdom and characteristics of the Taiwanese indigenous food culture were especially popular displays. Therefore, another aim of this paper is to examine the intertextuality between exhibition contents and audience participation through questionnaires. Moreover, how food-related exhibitions and performances in museums can be imagined, understood, and constructed, based on the complex symbols and practices of local knowledge, is investigated.