古裝裱金線織物之研究－以褐地串枝葫蘆花卉紋織金錦為實例

褐地串枝葫蘆花卉紋織金錦是一件用於古書畫裝裱的絲織品，它是以一經與二緯交織而成之地經接結金線織物，褐色經紗與粗藍色地緯分別以五枚三飛經面緞紋交織出褐色底色、五枚三飛緯面緞紋交織出暗藍色圖紋，以及與扁平片金緯紗以一上四下左斜、通梭織金、緯二重織方式勾勒出顯金之圖紋。經由傅立葉轉換紅外線光譜儀（FTIR）量測與纖維鑑別燃燒法，地經與地緯材質皆為蠶絲，透過X射線能量散射光譜儀（EDS）無機材質分析，扁平片金緯紗的材質表面金箔之主要成分為金，底襯材質經由SEM與FTIR光譜分析觀察與量測比對，扁平片金緯紗底襯材質之紙質材質為苧麻。

關鍵字

裝裱綾錦；織品圖紋；金線織物；傅立葉轉換紅外線光譜；織紋結構

並列摘要

This case study deals with a piece of gold brocade lined with hand-made paper and used as a mounting textile for historic Chinese paintings. The gold brocade is decorated with a winding-branch gourd pattern against a background of brown color. The ground and the gold-patterns are interconnected in a structure of one warp and two wefts (blue wefts and gold weft threads). The woven structure of the ground is identified as a warp-faced five-shaft satin with brown warps and flossy blue wefts. The flat strips of gold threads were applied as continuous supplementary wefts, woven into the design in the mode of 1/4 twill compound weave. According to fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and the combustion method for textile fiber analysis, both the ground warp and weft are made of silk. In addition, results of energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS), the primary material of the gilded weft is gold. Both scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and FTIR examination show the paper lining on the back of the gold strip to be made of ramie fiber.