彈性雙包芯紗及合股紗物性及織物水份管理影響之研究

Study of the Elastic Knitted Fabric Made of Elastic Double Covering Yarn or Single Component Two-ply Yarn on the Moisture Management

黃彥尊(Y. Z. Huang) ； 潘毅鈞(Y. J. Pan) ； 周紹華(S. H. Chou)

《紡織綜合研究期刊》 31卷4期 (2021/10) Pp. 41-48

https://doi.org/10.6439/TTRJ.202110_31(4).0007

摘要

本實驗採用十字斷面聚酯加工絲與GreenCell®長纖維原絲作為鞘紗，以彈性纖維作為芯紗，兩種鞘紗包覆方式及三種撚度TPM300、TPM500、TPM700的變化進行織物水份管理分析。其中使用TPM500對兩種材質進行合股撚後續織造成單面針織布比較物性及織物水份管理分析。實驗結果顯示對於紗線物性TPM500為最佳，而鞘紗材質包覆方式以聚酯為第一包覆最佳，織物水份管理性能TPM700為最佳，鞘紗材質包覆方式仍是以聚酯為第一包覆最佳；在合股紗物性及織物水份管理性能表現，合股聚酯TPM500為最佳，若是須使用最佳織物管理性能兼顧紗線物性，選擇使用聚酯為第一包覆之TPM700為佳，因TPM700及TPM500物性相差不大，而織物水份管理性能TPM700展現較佳之效能。

關鍵字

水份管理 ； 彈性雙包芯紗 ； 撚度

並列摘要

In the study, the elastic double covering yarn composed of sheath yarn that consist of cross-section polyester draw texturing yarn and GreenCell® filament yarn and core yarn that consist of Lycra® and the two-ply yarn was composed of cross-section polyester draw texturing yarn or GreenCell® filament yarn. The effect of 1st covering yarn selection, twist direction in SZ、ZZ、ZS and SS and the nominal turns per meter (TPM) of 300, 500 and 700 on the moisture management of its knitted fabric were studied. From study results, the breaking force and elongation of elastic double covering yarn with TPM 500 was a little higher than elastic double covering yarn with TPM 700 when the 1st covering yarn was cross-section polyester draw texturing yarn. The moisture management capability was highest if knitted fabric made of elastic double covering yarn with TPM 700 when the 1st covering yarn was cross-section polyester draw texturing yarn. The yarn properties and the moisture management capability of polyester two-ply yarn with TPM 500 was better than GreenCell® two-ply yarn.

並列關鍵字

Moisture management ； elastic double covering yarn ； twist