六朝隋唐的儀容研究── 一個醫療史的角度

本文以醫學文本為中心，討論魏晉南北朝到唐代的審美觀，尤其偏重在隋唐時代，探究當時的社會男女，特別是貴族男女對於身體美的愛好、風尚與實踐，並藉此考察醫學與社會之間緊密的互動關係。過去對同一時期之審美觀、美容等相關議題進行研究者甚多，但卻往往忽略醫療文獻的重要性，故本文特別針對醫籍有關影響儀容之身體病態，及能增益身體各部美感的內容加以耙梳與分析，以此一新的角度，更深入理解時人的生活重心與社會樣貌。六朝到唐代的醫家除了提供很多美髮、美容和美體的藥方給民眾達到理想中的美，也從本身的醫療知識出發，更進一步肯定那些審美標準背後所代表的健康意義，合理化與正當化那些審美要求。值得一提的是，自然衰老而導致的容體和鬚髮變化最無法為社會所接受，因而醫書提供許多藥方以解決問題。此外，相書中所說的貴相與社會的主流審美觀相當一致，所以醫者不免透過可行的醫療手段，幫社會男女變美，同時也是打造相法上的貴相。魏晉到唐代的男女都希望擁有姣好的外表，除了滿足人性基本的愛美心態，也有其實際的用途與好處。對於男性而言，俊美的體貌有助於他們的仕途發展，所以他們重視儀容；至於女性的容貌受到矚目，則能讓人聯想到他們的生育力和房中修煉。

關鍵字

儀容；審美觀；美容；身體；鬚髮；氣味；醫療

並列摘要

This thesis which centers on medical texts aims at discussing the aesthetics during the Wei and Tang specifically the aesthetics of Sui and Tang, to explore the body features preferences, customs and common practices of two genders especially noble ladies and noblemen. Meanwhile, this paper intents to investigate the interaction between medical science and society. Although there were many related studies of this era, researchers still always neglected the importance of medical texts. Therefore, this study will be focusing on how medical science affects a person's countenance, health and beauty to bring a different perspective on the social conduct and preferences between the different dynasties. Besides providing lots of prescriptions to assist people to obtain the beauty from head to foot, physicians who own medical knowledge during the Wei and Tang are able to affirm the health significance behind the aesthetic standards, and so rationalize and justify those aesthetic requirements. On the other hand, people couldn't accept the reality of aging with the deteriorating of their bodies, faces and hair, therefore medical books at the time provide solutions to counter the aging problem. Furthermore, “good looks” that are mentioned in physiognomy quite identical with the mainstream of aesthetics in society. Hence, the medical books also emphasize on the different medical treatments available to help people to become beautiful and to acquire “good looks” simultaneously. Men and women from the Wei to Tang emphasize on their appearance as it not only satisfies their love to beauty but also brings them other benefits. A good appearance is important to men as it brings them a good career; however for women, an attractive appearance associates their fertilities and sexual arts.