家常菜、酒樓、夜市:日治時期文學敘事中的臺灣料理

飲食之於人類，提供了生􏰀的營養，但在生􏰀以外，飲食也具有文化、社會與人際交流的象徵意義。尤其在臺灣人的生活中，「吃」其實被視為一種能夠聯繫人際關係、表達情感親疏的社交方式，無論是消費空間的聚餐，還是邀請朋友來家中作客，都代表了人與人之間的來往與互動，也能夠從吃什麼、和誰一起吃、為了什麼而吃，看出飲食所展示出的情感關係。日治後期的在臺日本作家，開始出現在作品中描寫臺灣人日常生活的題材，其中，濱田隼雄尤其喜愛描寫臺灣夜市的飲食風景。然而，在濱田隼雄作品中喜愛到臺灣夜市用餐的角色，往往是日本人，這些角色也透過前往夜市用餐的行為，展現出自身對身為殖民者在戰爭期間的族群身份觀，以及個人情感的起伏糾結。作為對照，臺灣作家龍瑛宗也是在作品中時常使用臺灣飲食意象作為寫作材料的作家，在他的作品中，「飲食」卻表現了臺灣人面對戰爭的沈默與悲觀。本研究將以將以濱田隼雄〈蝙翅〉和〈甘井君的私小說〉，以及龍瑛宗〈蓮霧的庭院〉為分析對象。透過討論作品中飲食行為所再現的意義，掌握戰爭期間，在臺日本作家與臺灣作家處理特定時空環境時，透過「飲食」表述不同身份所產生的族群身份觀念與人際情感。

關鍵字

飲食書寫；臺灣料理；濱田隼雄；龍瑛宗；殖民地文學；日臺一家

並列摘要

Taiwan is a country where people see “eating” as a symbol of social connection and cultural identity. It’s not only for biological needs, but also for the bonding of kinship, and to recognized the intimacy of relationship. Therefore, what they eat, whom they eat with, and why they eat together, reflects the values in relationships of Taiwanese. In late Japanese colonial period, the Japanese writers start to write about the daily life of Taiwanese as their subject. Hamada Hayao was a writer who especially liked to wrote about night markets in Taiwan, where Taiwanese went for their spare time. However, the characters who went to night markets are often Japanese, which is unusual during the colonial period, and the way Hamada Hayao described, usually shows the contradiction of his personal feeling and his colonizer status. On the contrary, Taiwanese writer Long Ying Zhong also used plenty of Taiwanese food in his pieces, but what he focus on, was the silence and pessimism that presented in these food and eating scenes. The thesis will compare “Pen Shi”(蝙翅) and “Amaikun's I-Novel” (甘井君的私小說))by Hamada Hayao, and “The Garden of Wax-apple”(蓮霧的庭院)by Long Yin Zhong to probe into the representation of dinging scenes and plots, to understand how the food scenes represent the different identity and nationality status of both Taiwanese author and Japanese author.