在食之外：日治時期臺灣食譜的文化與政治意涵

本文所欲探討的，是觀察日治時期才出現在臺灣的食譜文本，在內容有上有著何許特色，除了這些內容又有什麼樣的「弦外之音」存在。由於清代台灣仍屬移墾社會，精緻飲食文化的發展並不盛，所以清代臺灣有關飲食的文獻並不豐碩，除了少數的方志有載，其他多見於外人遊臺所留下之紀錄。食譜的刊載濫觴於日治時期，主要刊載於報紙及雜誌期刊之中。因此，臺灣食譜的發展直接跳過了具有自我特色的發展歷程，而是承接了日人經明治維新後受西方影響而來的現代食譜。筆者將臺灣食譜在日治時期的發展分為三個階段，分別為開展（1900-1907）、穩定（1907-1936）及戰時（1937-1942）。開展期尚未有承載現代性要素的食譜刊登，但日本的旬文化在此時期已開始出現；穩定期開始有了臺灣料理、各式料理及大量家庭料理食譜出現，含有計時及計量等現代性元素者亦不在少數；戰時則以國族意味濃厚的建國料理及因應物資匱乏的代用食、節米食譜居多，並在1942年後就未見食譜之刊載。可見食譜的刊載與時代變遷確實有相當的關連。若再行對照歷史事件的發生（如皇民化運動、總動員體制等），則可觀察出食譜背後反映出的文化與政治意涵。

關鍵字

食譜文本；飲食文化；現代性；建國料理；臺灣料理；代用食

並列摘要

This research aims to discuss the features of recipe contexts during the Japanese colonial period in Taiwan and the political and cultural meanings behind the words. Taiwan in Qing Dynasty remains in an immigrant society and the development of delicate food culture is not prosperous, and thus the number of dietary documents are rare. Except for a few local records, most recipes are documented by tourists in their travel anecdotes. In the Japanese Colonial Period, Japanese recipes were frequently published in newspapers and magazines. Therefore, Taiwanese recipes skipped off the process of developing localized characteristics but directly inherited from the modern recipes that were influenced by the Western countries after the Meiji Restoration. This research, according to the Japanese colonial period, divides the development of Taiwanese recipes into three stages: Launch Stage (1900-1907), Stability Stage (1907-1936), and Wartime Stage (1937-1942). During the launch stage, there was no recipe with modern elements, but the Japanese seasonal culture appeared during this period. In the stability stage, recipes introduce various kinds of cuisine including Taiwanese cuisine, Japanese cuisine, and lots of home cooking. The modern elements, such as accurate timing and measurement, were introduced in recipes. In Wartime Stage, recipes mainly apply the substitute food and the rice saving food and emphasize the nationality. Besides, at the end of World War II, no publication of recipes had been seen after 1942. The characteristics of recipes in different stages imply the relation with the vicissitude of society. If we compare the occurrence of historical events (such as the Kominka Movement, and the Total Defense Mobilization... etc.), we can reveal the cultural and political implications behind the recipes.