男性彩妝師升遷的玻璃手扶梯

The glass escalator of male makeup artists

蔡怡婷(Yi-Ting Tsai)

指導教授 ： 李碧涵

國立臺灣大學/社會科學院/國家發展研究所/碩士(2017年)

https://doi.org/10.6342/NTU201700776

摘要

囿於既有的意識形態、社會文化與組織結構的影響，使得勞動市場明顯存在著兩性區隔的現象，女性集中在某些特定的職業之中，稱作(女)性別典型職業，當男性進入女性為主的職業，即稱為非性別典型職業。Williams針對四種非性別典型行業(護理人員、國小老師、圖書館管理員以及社工人員)的研究後提出「玻璃手扶梯」（glass escalator）的概念，認為男性進入以女性為多數的職業，反而會使其升遷更加快速及順遂。本文使用玻璃手扶梯之理論為架構，以非性別典型職業勞動過程中的父權紅利、訓練、升遷與工作環境以及非性別典型職業的社會觀感三部份，來檢視男性彩妝師的升遷過程是否如Williams所言，以及性別不平等又是如何在勞動過程中運作與再生產。
首先，父權紅利在彩妝業勞動過程中的分配，建立在對於彩妝師性別僵化想像的差異，此外，男性彩妝師的男同志身份也帶來特殊的優勢；但男性彩妝師的優勢是要適度在陰柔與陽剛間來回穿梭、小心拿捏。再者，男性彩妝師的工作環境，相較於女性較少的家庭負擔以及尚未能成家的同志身份，帶來更多升遷機會；男同志上司、女上司居多的現象較易受提拔；能負擔勞力、面對女性消費者與女性同事圍繞如同量身打造的工作；最後，社會將職業性別化以及對女性職業的輕視，導致男性彩妝師需要以成功前輩的案例來回應與切割失敗，而負面觀感導致男性彩妝師在入行時的高門檻，卻同時成為一種篩選機制，有更完整的職涯規劃，年齡與性別的多重歧視也使得他們不得不向上爬升。弔詭的一切的努力卻無法翻轉那些烙印在非性別典型職業男性身上的偏見，卻也因此他們得以更具優勢。
研究結果發現:玻璃手扶梯效應的確發生在男性彩妝師的升遷過程中。雖彩妝業是以女性為主的職業，但在其中陽剛特質還是持續著被推崇著與運作著，甚至變形的陽剛型態更是讓男性彩妝師受益的關鍵。但期望能透過鬆動陽剛正典與位階，帶來可能轉變的契機。當女性化的指涉不再成為男性不得不切割的特質，或許所謂女人的工作才能得到平反、勞動中的性別平等才能再向前邁。

關鍵字

非性別典型職業 ； 玻璃手扶梯 ； 性別歧視 ； 彩妝師 ； 男同志

並列摘要

The impact of the existing ideology, social culture and organizational structure makes a clear phenomenon of gender separation in the labor market. Women work for certain kind of occupations, known as (female) gender typical career. When the male work for female-based occupations, we call them non-sex typical occupations. Williams proposed the concept of "glass escalator" for the study of four non-sex typical trades (caregivers, kindergarten teachers, librarians and social workers). He believes that men enter female-based occupations will make them promote smoothly and rapidly. In this paper, I use Williams's theory glass escalator to view the promotion process of male makeup artist in three parts: the patriarchal dividend, training, promotion and working environment of non-sex typical professional labor and the social perception of non-sex typical occupations and apply the theory of Williams to see how gender inequality works and reproduces in the labor process.
First of all, the distribution of the parental dividend in the makeup industry is based on differences in the imagination of the makeup artist's gender. Furthermore, the gay identity of the male makeup artists also brings special advantages. However, male makeup artists need to show his feminine and masculine characteristics moderately, carefully and properly in order to gain the advantages of male makeup artists. Moreover, comparing to females, male makeup artists bring more promotional opportunities for the reason of less burden and unmarried gay identity in their working environment. If there are more gay supervisors and female bosses, then male makeup artists are easier to get the promotion. They can face and handle female consumers and colleagues in the working environment easily. Finally, the community divides occupations based on its gender and the contempt the female occupations causing male makeup artist need to be successful. The negative perceptions in the male makeup artist increase the threshold of entering to the occupation. It also becomes a selective mechanism. With more complete career planning, the discrimination of age and gender makes them have to improve. All the hard work cannot change the prejudices of those who are branded in non-sex typical professional men; on the contrary, they also have more advantages.
The results of the study found that: glass escalator effect does occur in the male makeup artist in the process of promotion. Although the makeup industry is a female-based career, masculine characteristics are continuously being respected, promoted and implemented. Furthermore, the deformation of the masculine type is the key point to benefit male makeup artists. Through the hegemony of masculine bring the opportunity of changes. When feminine referrals are no longer the traits that men have to avoid, then maybe the so-called women's work can be reborn, and gender equality in labor can move forward.

並列關鍵字

gender atypical occupation ； glass escalator ； sexual discrimination ； makeup artist ； gay

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