服裝與空間–以參數化工具探討服裝立體剪裁設計

本研究主要探討服裝與空間之關係，經過空間、裝置與服裝的案例分析所獲得的啟發，並結合參數化設計工具的輔助繪圖，思考服裝紋理與版型的設計方法。透過系列服裝設計製作的過程與經驗，將服裝元素轉化成空間的皮層與結構。設計過程主要分為參數化服裝設計、服裝實做與展覽空間設計（Pavilion）三個階段。階段一主要探討如何利用參數化軟體（Grasshopper）繪製服裝版型與紋理，一開始以三種操作方式探討服裝的紋理變化，透過不同的繪製邏輯生成不同的紋理效果，並且著重在立體紋理的研究與操作。嘗試利用相近的切割紋理，設計不同的立體紋理效果。在服裝版型設計的部份，主要以簡單的幾何形體設計繪製服裝版型，透過改變不同控制點的位置，創造形態的變化。階段二著重在服裝的實做過程，並以機器輔助生產製造，提高服裝製作的效率，並且嘗試將布料以不同方式穿搭，展現出服裝的不同風貌。階段三則將服裝元素轉化成空間皮層，以設計四種空間形式為基本原型，接著挑選出兩種服裝主題的概念做為展覽空間的皮層設計元素。主題一以類生物表皮大小不同的紋理孔洞做為空間皮層的發展概念；主題二則發展立體圖騰，將紋理中互相疊合的線條所產生的層次與縫隙加以發展成為空間的設計概念。藉由本研究對於服裝設計流程的探討以及空間轉化的過程，除了發展出具有個人風格特色的服裝作品，也提供了對於服裝與空間設計的不同思考面向。希望藉由本研究嘗試，提供後續研究者能夠繼續發展以不同設計領域的思考方式與概念，發展有趣的建築與空間的形式。

關鍵字

服裝；服裝立體剪裁；超表面；參數化設計；紋理；皮層；織理

並列摘要

This research discusses the relationship between clothing and space. Through the inspiration which case analysis of clothing, installation and space obtains, the process and the experience of a series of clothing design, combining parametric assistance cartography and design method initiation of texture and patterns, transforms the element of clothing into the skin and structure in space. The design process has structured in three main parts, including parametric costume design, the actual operation, and the pavilion design. The first part approaches the question mainly discussing the use of parametric design software Grasshopper planning patterns and texture of costume design, including both of the study of three-dimensional texture under logic cartography based on similar carving grain and the experiment of creating patterns through different versions of control point and simple geometry. The second part operates and improves the efficiency of costume making by computer-aided design and manufacturing (CAD/CAM), and shows the different styles of the fabrics by dressing. The third part transforms the clothing element into spatial surface into four space types, using concepts including bionic skin with various sizes of holes and 3D totem with overlapping lines and cracks which has developed into spatial concepts to create pavilion designs. The attempt of this research concludes a dynamic framework that can be used to explore new thinking of clothing and spatial design through the discussion of design progress and development of spatial transformation, and provides an ongoing writing of developing unusual construction and the spatial forms for following researchers who has interested in interdisciplinary studies.