張岱、李漁飲饌小品之考察

Exploring the Writings about Diet by Zhang Dai and Li Yu

段正怡(Cheng-Yi Tuan)

指導教授 ： 詹海雲

元智大學/人文社會學院/中國語文學系/碩士(2008年)

摘要

近年來快速興盛的「飲食文學」風潮令眾人趨之若鶩，除了一般食譜之外還有許多與個人美感、情感經驗結合的美食著作，帶動了一系列與「飲食文化」相關的經濟效益。回顧中國古代文明中，各個時代的飲食發展有著相似的規則可循，總是在滿足了溫飽之後自然提升飲食的品質，漸漸地飲食經驗被以專著的方式記錄下來成為以實用性為出發點的食經、食譜，做適當的紀錄與傳達。
「晚明」這個複雜的時代背景，社會在政治、經濟、文化諸方面產生重大變革的時空之下，有利的經濟生活，刺激出各種生活享受的欲望，表現在滿足口腹之欲的飲食消費中尤為突出，飲食逐漸擺脫對溫飽的單純追求，進而昇華為一種精神享受，被賦予了更多的文化意味，飲食理論也走向成熟並深入的研究。飲食文化的形成，很大程度上取決於它的精神品格和審美價值，飲食已從單純的生理刺激上升到精神文化的層面。而社會上具有影響力的「文人階層」，所建構的飲食版圖具有平凡中見獨特的美感與一般富商宦官追求的奢華飲食有很大的不同，文人價值觀轉移之後，開始正視飲膳書籍的功能，不僅讓飲食文化走向精緻化，文人飲饌書寫更使飲食從邊緣回到了主流中心的位置。
自明後期到清中葉，高濂、張岱、李漁、袁枚等人的文字構成了永不散席的飲食文化閱讀盛宴，在中國的飲食小品書寫中具有承先啟後的作用。因此，本文欲透過文人生涯中的飲食經驗與書寫，探討晚明文人如何建構個人與時代的飲饌美學，觀察晚明飲饌小品中的審美意識如何形成後世飲食文學的典範，藉由這個角度的分析更能清楚掌握中國飲饌書寫在晚明時期的演變軌跡，以及蘊藏在物質層面下的精神文化內涵。

關鍵字

張岱 ； 李漁 ； 飲饌小品 ； 飲食文學

並列摘要

“Diet literature” has become more and more popular in recent years. In conjunction with personal aesthetic feeling, emotion, and experience, articles about table delicacies, not just general cooking recipes, have driven relevant economic benefits of “cooking culture.” Reviewing it in China's ancient civilization, the diet development of each eras has similar rules and can be followed:that is satisfaction in food and clothing naturally followed by the improvement of quality of diet. Then, the history of such diet experience has gradually been recorded in the forms of recipes, cuisine canons, or even legends for its practicability.
During late Ming era (1573 - 1644 A.D.), the complication of society structure, change in politics, and advance in economy further improved the life of ordinary people and triggered the desire of enjoyable, good quality of life. Food has gradually become more a spiritual need and cultural pursuit rather than just daily feeds. Such a development also further stimulated the consumption on delicacies and more sophisticated food and the maturity of in depth researches on the theory of diet. Food culture depends not only on the taste as a type of physiological stimulations but, in a large part, also on its aesthetic and spiritual aspects. Among different branches of food culture development, the one developed by “scholar's stratum” conveys much more aesthetic feeling compared to what developed by rich society, which may largely focus on the luxurious aspect of the food itself. With the promotion by scholars and the publishing of relevant books, the aesthetic aspect has become the center of food culture and further delicated its development.
Between late Ming and mid Ching era, the literature created by Kao Lieng, Zhang Dai, Li Yu, and Yuan Mai played an important role in continuing the development in food culture and recording the specialty of the delicacies in that time period. Here, we would like to explore how they recorded and constructed the food culture through their diet experience and writings.

並列關鍵字

Zhang Dai ； Li Yu ； drinking the food essay ； diet literature

參考文獻

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