皮囊之內-以當代首飾創作探討自我認同 陳鈺錡創作論述

本研究論文透過當代首飾創作探討自我認同對於自身的影響。時常對於自我感到不自信，抱持著懷疑的態度，當此想法出現於腦海中時，產生困惑與膽怯。嘗試去尋找可能影響自身的原因，發現懷疑自我的習慣，似乎在有意識以來即存在，透過了解自身背景與回溯記憶時所產生的互動、情緒、感受等，思考是否記憶的存在有著一定的影響力，並且在潛移默化中，成為現在的自己。透過記憶的畫面，運用轉換抽象情緒為具體形象，以當代首飾具有賦予物件意義的特性，及身體配戴後的互動關係來表達不同情緒的狀態，探討過去記憶對自身可能造成的潛意識影響，將現實中的某些狀態或事物形象做連結，並且轉化情緒後的呈現。以時序性的方式分為三個系列，《憶緒系列》回想記憶、《縛印系列》看見自我綑綁的狀態、《異同系列》慢慢理解自己，最後給予自身認同感。，此創作以當代首飾中，賦予媒材意義的特性，使用易碎的蛋殼，轉變一般對於蛋殼的印象，讓材質不再只是一種材料的存在，蛋殼的脆弱性呼應了回溯記憶及整理情緒時的小心翼翼，不知道釐清這些記憶片段後，會揭開怎樣的故事面紗，疑惑與不確定卻又好奇的心理狀態，令人不敢大意。皮囊如同軀體外表的存在，包覆著內在的自己，表現在外的狀態都是透過個人經驗選擇而形成，以現在角度觀看過去記憶中的自己，透過創作與造型變化來呈現記憶中的情緒與狀態，並且在當代首飾創作的漫漫過程中尋回自我，了解為何時常給予自身許多壓力的可能原因，反覆性的操作與實驗，達到療癒自我的效果，試圖從這些行為中讓自己停下腳步回頭觀看自我，給予自身更多肯定與認同。

關鍵字

皮囊；自我認同；身體物件；當代首飾；金工

並列摘要

This study explores the impact of self-identity on the individual through contemporary jewelry creation. Often, when people do not feel self-confident, self-doubt arises in their minds, resulting in confusion and timidity. When searching for the reason why this might affect me, I found that I held a skeptical attitude, and that I had held it for as long as I could remember. Inworking to understandmy own background, and recalling the interactions, moods, and emotions that arose while I accessed my memories, I came to wonder whether the existence of memory has a certain influential power, and whether it is the subtly transformative force of memory that has made me who I am today. It is possible to convertthe abstract sentimentof images contained within a memory intoconcrete forms, and impart deeplymeaningful characteristics onto these pieces through the techniques of contemporary jewelry creation. Additionally, after putting on the pieces, the different emotional states of the wearer can be expressed in the interactive relationship between the wearer and the jewelry. This paper will explore the subconscious influence of past memory on the individual and make connections between realistic situations and objective images that transform the presentation of emotions. This composition is divided into three chronological parts: the “Memory and Emotion Series”is about the recollection of memories;the “Binding Series” is about examining the ties that are holding a person down;the “Similarities and Differences Series” is about slowlycoming to understand of the selfand finallyobtaining a sense of self-identity. By means of contemporary jewelry design, this artwork is able to inject meaning into the medium.Delicate eggshells are used here to push against the common perception of material;in this piece, the eggshells aremore thanjust a material. The fragility of the eggshells echoes the wariness with which a person recalls a memory. There is no way of knowing what story will be unveiled once the memory is seen clearly. Feelings of confusion and uncertainty combined with curiosity begone to remember with caution. The body encapsulates the inner self, and this externality is manifested by personal experience and choice. When a person gazes at memories of theirpast self through the eyes of the present, and looks back onthe self during the slow process of creating contemporary jewelry pieces, it becomes possible for them to understand the reasons why the burden of self-apportioned pressure weighs on them so heavily. After the repeated manipulation and experimentation of the jewelry creation process is finished, a person can attain therapeutic results regarding self-identity, such that they may be inspired by these repeated actions to pause and revisit, and generously affirm and recognize themself. Key words: the body, self-identity, body object, contemporary jewelry, metalsmithing