本文旨在探討法國長棍麵包於臺灣飲食消費市場之在地發展與高雄地區之麵包消費品味,並以文本分析與深度訪談作為研究方法。藉由飲食文本探討在臺灣的發展脈絡中,平面媒體賦予長棍麵包之文化意涵,以及品味之轉型;深度訪談對象為麵包師傅與消費者,用以呈現長棍麵包在高雄市之發展現況及消費者品味認知。研究結果分為兩點:一、臺灣社會發展進程中形成長棍麵包之消費意涵:根據文本分析,長棍麵包之發展可分為五個時期。在臺灣歷經六十年的時空推移下,長棍麵包逐漸進入臺灣飲食消費體系,也與西式餐飲、健康飲食概念結合,慢慢鞏固其地位。依法國社會學家Pierre Bourdieu提出的生活實踐公式,長棍麵包在臺之生活實踐為:【(麵包作為維生食品)*(法國生活文化象徵資本)】+臺灣=長棍麵包消費實踐;二、消費品味體現於高雄在地飲食生活型態:綜合生產者與消費者之觀點,可知高雄的麵包產業自1990年代起,開始呈現精緻化之走向。隨著烘焙技術不斷改良,相關知識之取得漸趨便利、出國考察、使用天然老麵等因素,麵包製作技術向上提升。業者亦透過店面風格營造、經營整體餐飲事業、使用進口原料等方式來強調自身之烘焙技術與口味道地性。媒體在整體產業中,則扮演中介者與資本傳遞者之角色。依業者之敘述,可知生產消費局限、需向軟式麵包之消費主流妥協,是其面臨之困境。消費者則以長棍麵包酥脆、有嚼勁之特性作為品質判定之標準,並以食用時機做為區分日常生活與休閒生活之品味區辨。口味多元及規格之改變,體現長棍麵包在地化。而法國生活文化印象之傳遞,及麵包風味之差異,讓消費者得以明確辨識「法國味/臺灣味」,同時也將兩者做出品味區隔。也因兩者有各自的品味認知,連帶使得飲食受容之情況並未明顯發生在長棍麵包的飲食消費。
This study explores the local development of baguette in Taiwan and the cultural tastes for bread consumption in Kaohsiung City. This thesis uses the content analysis and interviewing as the research methods. Through content analysis, this study would like to discover of the culture meaning that the print media had embedded on baguette and the change of tastes. The interviewing subjects for bakers and consumers to showing the current status of baguette in the development of Kaohsiung City and the social distinction of taste.The research results showed the consumer culture of baguette formed in the process of social development in Taiwan since1950. It can be divided into five periods. In Taiwan, after 60 years of space-time goes on, baguette had been molded as a sign of French Food Culture with its leisure life culture image and combined with Western-style dining and the concept of healthy eating. Since 1990s, the bread industry of Kaohsiung is beginning to show the trend of refined. In the description of the bakers, it shows the limitations of production and consumption, the need to compromise to the mainstream of the consumption of soft bread. Consumers who love to eat Baguette have formed their own identity and distinction by the characteristic of crispy and al dente from eating baguette. The identity and distinction help the consumer to recognize the quality of baguette and distinguish their lifestyle between daily life and leisure life. The social distinction of baguette involves the variety of flavors and the change of appearance; it also embodies the creolization and glocalization of excotic food.