從「傳統咖啡」至「精品咖啡」：越南大叻Cầu Đất小農精品咖啡產業鏈的形成與發展

越南的咖啡是在19世紀末葉由法國引進，但是當時咖啡的產量相對不高。從1975年至2015年的時間，越南咖啡的產量增加超過200倍，成爲世界咖啡第二大生產國，在世界咖啡貿易中佔有重要的地位。不過，國際咖啡協議在1989年7月4日起的失效，導致了全球咖啡貿易的混亂，到了2000年8月，咖啡價格完全崩潰，導致許多農民負債累累。其次，在全球咖啡商品鏈中，跨國企業和大型連鎖零售商所壟斷與控制，大部分利潤皆由咖啡跨國企業和大型連鎖零售商所賺取，咖啡農僅能分得其中極微薄利潤。接著，這幾年來，地球暖化造成全球氣候變遷現象，影響咖啡豆的質量，也雪上加霜的影響著咖啡農的生計。本論文主要以商品鏈概念、商品化概念與行動者網絡理論為基礎來探討全球咖啡市場對越南大叻Cầu Đất經濟社會、Cầu Đất小農與Cầu Đất咖啡產業的影響，以及Cầu Đất精品咖啡生產鏈形成及發展的過程。本論文發現，爲了生存，生產傳統咖啡的Cầu Đất小農一方面採取「以量補價」對策，過度使用化肥增加咖啡產量，造成地力退化，環境污染和降低咖啡品質。另一方面，爲了增加收入，他們會種植多元化的作物。不過，這都只是「暫時的策略」。本論文也發現，在越南政府鼓勵及推動經濟企業與生產者實行合作生產及銷售產品的政策之下，Cầu Đất小農與咖啡公司或合作社建立了「共生的咖啡關係」，他們選擇以重新商品化Cầu Đất咖啡的方式，提升咖啡的品質，進入精品咖啡的全球商品鏈。走上「精品咖啡」生產之路後，他們有不少機會建立商機，收入獲得改善，提高自己的社會地位及擴大其社會網絡。同時，這也讓Cầu Đất與世界連結起來，對於Cầu Đất社會經濟的發展具有正面的效果。不過，本研究也發現，有些受訪者因家庭人力不足、資本不足、公司/合作社要求咖啡品質太嚴格或收購價格不如他們的期待等因素，因此他們無法或決定不加入公司/合作社精品咖啡生產鏈。此外，在走上「精品咖啡」之路，Cầu Đất農民、咖啡公司/合作社與Cầu Đất精品咖啡產業面臨一些挑戰，他們需要勇於克服這些困難，帶動Cầu Đất精品咖啡產業永續發展。

關鍵字

越南；商品鏈；商品化；行動者網絡理論； Cầu Đất精品咖啡

並列摘要

Coffee was introduced to Vietnam by France at the end of the 19th century, and at that time the production of coffee was relatively low. From 1975 to 2015, the production of coffee in Vietnam underwent a 200-fold increase, as the country became the second largest producer of coffee in the world and claimed an important position in the coffee trade world. However, the International Coffee Agreement officially ended on July 4, 1989, resulting in a chaotic free-for-all in the global coffee trade; by August 2000 coffee prices collapsed completely, leaving many farmers deeply indebted. Secondly, in the global coffee commodity chain, transnational corporations and large chain retailers are monopolized and controlled, and most of the profits are earned by them, while only a very small profit is available to the farmers. Then, in the past few years, global warming has caused worldwide climate change, which has affected the quality of coffee beans and worsened the livelihoods of coffee farmers. Based on the concept of commodity chain, commercialization and actor-network theory, this paper mainly explores the impact of the global coffee market on the economy and society of Cau Dat, this area’s small farmers and its coffee industry, and the process of formation and development of the specialty coffee industry chain in the Cau Dat area of Da Lat, Vietnam. This paper has found that, in order to survive, Cau Dat smallholder farmers, who produce traditional coffee, on the one hand have adopted the strategy of “increase quantity to compensate for low prices” by excessive use of chemical fertilizers, resulting in soil degradation, environmental pollution, and lower coffee quality. Yet, on the other hand, in order to increase their income, they diversify their crops. However, this is only a "temporary strategy". Most importantly, this paper finds that under the Vietnamese government's policy of encouraging economic enterprises and producers to implement cooperative production and sales of products, Cau Dat small farmers have established a "symbiotic coffee relationship" with coffee companies/cooperatives. These farmers re-commercialize coffee production by improving the quality of coffee in order to enter the global specialty coffee commodity chain. After embarking on the road of "specialty coffee" production, farmers have more opportunities to establish business opportunities by themselves, increase their income, improve their social status and expand their social network. Coffee production also connects Cau Dat with the world, which has a positive effect on the social and economic development of Cau Dat. However, this study also found that some respondents were unable or decided not to join the company/cooperative specialty coffee production chain due to factors such as insufficient family manpower, inadequate capital, the company/cooperative's requirements for coffee quality are too strict, or the purchase price was not as good as the farmers expected. In addition, Cau Dat farmers, coffee companies/cooperatives, and the Cau Dat specialty coffee industry are facing some challenges when embarking on the road of "specialty coffee", as they need to overcome these difficulties to drive the sustainable development of the Cau Dat specialty coffee industry.