誰來用餐？中壢地區越南飲食店消費選擇因素之探討

越南飲食店的蓬勃出現，使得越南料理在臺灣的能見度與日俱增。有鑒於前人研究越南飲食店多著重在經營者面向，對越南飲食店內的消費情形著墨不多，為進一步了解越南飲食店，本文嘗試從消費者角度切入探討，並對其消費樣貌進行剖析。本研究依區位設定三家越南飲食店為田野觀察地點，將消費者依身分類別分成臺灣人、越籍新移民、越籍移工三類，以釐清不同身分別消費者在不同地點的越南飲食店的消費情形與互動狀況的差異，並了解越南飲食店在跨國落地生根後口味傳遞的實相。本研究採參與觀察與質性研究的方式，從觀察和訪談越南飲食店內消費者、經營者的消費互動情形，來分析消費行為與消費背後代表的意涵，並和「文化經濟」、「族裔經濟」、「族群認同」、「族群網絡」、「陌生人」等理論做對話，希冀勾勒出越南飲食店內消費關係的真實樣貌。研究結果發現三家越南飲食店多採兼重三種客源的經營策略，差別是在假日與非假日時以何種顧客為主，工業區區位的店平日也會有移工顧客，其他二家店平日以新移民、臺灣人消費群為多，臺灣顧客多是經朋友介紹，且有友伴同行來用餐的；假日則以移工及新移民家庭為多。用餐範圍會依消費者身分別自然劃界，呈現「族群區塊，各取所需」的消費面貌，經營者多會為移工設置「特區」消費。店面要求以臺灣人最在意門面、衛生，移工最不在意。飲食內容上，臺灣人最常點的以河粉、炸春捲等和自己口味接近的菜餚為主，新移民、移工用餐會以價位為考量，酸湯是其常點的菜色。口味要求上，經營者皆自稱道地，消費者中除臺灣人無法辨識外，南北越消費者各自吹捧的情形壁壘分明，但在臺灣的越南飲食店經營者為生計考量難有真的道地。消費者面向上，臺灣人屬「跨界」消費的「文化經濟」消費行為；移工和經營者為同族裔，屬回歸「原界」的「族裔經濟」消費行為；新移民身分特殊，既是同族裔也算外國人，但因無族群飲食界線，且在同族裔的消費環境，當屬「族裔經濟」消費行為。陌生人的隱形界線普遍存在當今的臺灣社會，當面對異族群時，此界線愈顯分明，但可以因彼此互動後的了解包容而消融。

關鍵字

越南飲食店；族裔經濟；族群網絡；族群認同；文化經濟

並列摘要

The emergence of considerable Vietnamese food stores has resulted in the increasing visibility of Vietnamese food in Taiwan. In some previous studies of Vietnamese food in Taiwan, which mostly emphasize on the aspects of owners with scanty mention about the consumption in these food stores, this study tries to explore from consumers’ point of view and to analyze their consumption patterns. In this study, three Vietnamese food stores are targeted as the observation fields according to their location area, and consumers are divided into three categories, the Taiwanese, the new Vietnamese immigrants, and the Vietnamese migrant workers. By this means, the differences in consumption patterns and interactions of consumers with various identities in different locations could be clarified, and the reality of the passed-down tastes that are transnational and now settled could be understood. In this study, participant observation and qualitative research are adopted, and the consumer behaviors and the consumption implications are analyzed by observing and interviewing the consumers and the owners. Concepts such as “cultural economy”, “ethnic economy”, “ethnic identity”, “ethnic networks”, and “stranger” are discussed in order to outline the true profile of the consumption relationship within Vietnamese food stores The results showed that all of the three Vietnamese food stores take the same business strategy of valuing all three kinds of customers, but the differences lie in which customers are the majority during holidays or weekdays. There are also migrant worker customers in the food stores within the industrial area during weekdays; however, in the other two food stores, there are mainly new immigrants and Taiwanese customers during weekdays. Most of the Taiwanese customers are introduced and accompanied by their friends, and migrant workers and immigrant families are the major customers during holidays. The dining areas are automatically divided by consumers’ identity, which shows the consumption patterns of “each ethnicity takes what it needs”. The owners often establish “special areas” for the migrant workers to dine in. As to what the customers require from a food stores, Taiwanese are most concerned about the facade of the shop and the sanitation, which the migrant workers are least concerned about. As to the food, Taiwanese customers mostly order dishes that are closer to their local tastes, such as rice noodles and fried spring rolls; however, new immigrants and workers are more concerned about the prices, and they often order the “sour soup”. As to the tastes, all of the owners claim that their food tastes authentic; however, besides Taiwanese who could not tell the differences, both the North and South Vietnamese consumers support and brag about their own favorite food stores. But for the owners of those Vietnamese food stores, it is really difficult to offer truly authentic food in consideration of their business survival. As to the aspect of consumers, Taiwanese are engaged in the “cross-border” consumer behavior of “cultural economy"; migrant workers and store owners originate from similar home country, so for the workers it is a consumer behavior of “ethnic economy” which similar to the return to their own “domestic territory”. New immigrants have a special status, in which they, on the one hand, have originated from a similar countryt as the owners and, on the other hand, are also considered as a foreigner by mainstream Taiwanese, although they have already become citizens of Taiwan. Therefore, the new immigrants consumers are undoubtedly engaged in the “ethnic economy” consumer behavior. The invisible boundaries among strangers prevalently exist in today's society, and when people face different ethnic groups, these boundaries are more distinct; however, they could be dissolved by understanding and acceptance generated from interactions among different ethnic groups.