歐洲傳統手工帽飾創新與教學設計之研究

摘要本研究者身為專業英式手工禮帽工藝師，以專業底蘊與創作美感，協助喜愛手作的大眾，將意念的想像透過繁複細膩的手感完整詮釋，化平面素材為立體藝術帽子。將古老經典的帽飾的歷史活化，並以繁複的手工帽楦製作過程及經典的帽胚材料與輔料應用，以特別的素材，讓學員孰悉製作與運用設計，對於有興趣從事歐洲手工製帽者，在這條創作道路上有機會接觸到如此稀有之特殊工藝。減少花大錢到遙遠國外旅程及不用面對語言溝通障礙，只要堅持學習、永保熱情、追求進步，累積每一滴的創作養份，讓美麗的創作夢想種子發芽茁壯。根據馬斯洛需求層次理論，映證英式淑女帽飾這個區塊需求來看，已經跳脫冬天保暖、夏天防曬及安全上的需求的層面，而從帽飾歷史發展的探討，更發現淑女們藉由時尚的穿著搭配，希望借助服飾造型得到愛和歸屬感，並獲得群體的一個良好的人際關係，及奢侈品的購買，來滿足個人尊嚴上的需求，在古代，它可能是一個身分及地位的一個象徵，而現代，則表現在個人主義的獨立思想及對時尚的追求與認同。研究者利用五行五色觀念創作帽飾構思，運用服裝顏色場合氣氛等，搭配顏色與其他的輔料，如：蕾絲、刺繡、搭配羽毛或結合其他材料，也以色彩來調配帽飾的設計，造型成就獨特個人風格，再者色彩的選擇與運用在設計上與基底材的更易融入結合，成就整體感，也因此更能表現英式淑女帽的高貴與典雅氣質。本研究從帽飾的歷史發展到現有的流行的帽款、現代帽飾設計師及作品的介紹，藉由一組案例，來說明歐洲手工帽飾，從發想到手工製作的繁瑣過程，到走秀舞台發表作品的過程，更將寶貴經驗的操作經驗，傳承到各大專院校、服裝設計相關社團及單位。

關鍵字

時尚；造型；帽飾；手工製作；教學

並列摘要

Abstract As a professional British handmade hat craftsman, the researcher with professional background and the sense of beauty assists people who love DIY in visualizing their abstract imagination with delicate handling transforming plane materials into stereoscopic artistic hats. For revitalizing the history of ancient classical hat decorations, the researcher tries to teach students who are interested in European handmade hat how-to design, by way of combining the complicated process of hat moulds and classic hat embryo materials making. Meanwhile, the researcher gives the students opportunities to be acquainted with such a rare craftsmanship with less cost and less language barrier. Besides, the researcher also encourages the students to keep enthusiasm, and believes that through accumulating every creative idea, in some days the beautiful dream of craftsmanship will come true. Decoration of The British ladies’ hats have had more function than sun protection and keeping warm in winter. The researcher considers that by means of the style of clothing, people could get intimate relationships, which refer to Marslow’s hierarchy of needs is the needs of belongingness and love. Furthermore, buying luxury fashion items in other words is to satisfy the needs of esteem. Looking into the development of hats, ancient people regarded hats as the symbol of identity and social status. However, nowadays hats present the independent view of individualism and the recognition of pursuing fashion. The researcher uses the concept of Wuxing, which include metal, wood, water, and fire, earth five phases and colors in his ideas, creating hat decoration and utilizing the base materials, such as lace, embroidery, feathers to achieve unique personal style. At the same time, he tries to integrate above materials to achieve a strong sense of integrity, impress people with the nobility and elegance of the British ladies’ hat. This research introduces from the history of hats to the current modern hats designers and crafts, enumerating and explaining examples of making made-to-order European hats that including the process from sketch to catwalk stage. Publishing this research is to share the valuable and operational experience, inheriting to college students and fashion designer.