仿生概念應用於服裝設計之創作研究

自然界的萬物生生不息，一直是人類自古以來學習的對象，這種模仿自然生物的科學稱為生物仿生學（Biomimicry）。而生物仿生學在2009年被《哈佛商業評論》列為最具突破的商業創意之一；2014年富比士雜誌也將其譽為為企業帶來成功的科技趨勢之一。由此可知，仿生概念可以說是具有時代意義的嶄新思維。人類的服裝除了功能性的穿著外，也是一種傳遞文化與思想的媒介，本創作研究冀望藉由服裝作為傳達載體，運用仿生概念之手法達到以下之目的：一、經由仿生與服裝設計文獻的整理與分析，探索其發展脈絡，進而掌握其趨勢與潮流；二、透過個案的比較分析，了解服裝設計風格應用的差異性，以及其設計師之表現手法，作為實證創作之基礎；三、利用創作實驗從不同角度解讀大自然的奧妙，運用仿生概念的手法，傳達另類反思美學，思考生態永續的重要性。本創作研究首先經由文獻分析法，整理歸納仿生概念與服裝設計風格之發展趨勢，在經過探討文獻資料的過程中，發展出仿生概念應用原則的三個面向及服裝的軟雕塑風格。接著輔以案例研究方法，將當代具備仿生概念與軟雕塑風格之服裝設計案例做彙整研究，透過了解在服裝上應用的成功案例，建立後續創作上的依據。而在創作主題的理念，從研究目的、創作手法及創作媒材三個面向開始發展，以生物多樣性比例高於世界的台灣原生植物中，具有視覺觀賞效果及女性形象的花卉繼續發展創作脈絡。台灣附有蝴蝶蘭王國的美稱，加上蝴蝶蘭的基因數目與人類相近，因此選擇台灣原生蝴蝶蘭，作為本創作研究之創作的主題。最後以創作實證方式，從機制仿生、構造仿生、外觀仿生，三個仿生應用原則之面向出發，探索不同的創作元素可行性，再結合軟雕塑風格之要素，運用誇張的剪裁、多層次堆疊及結合異材質，加強服裝視覺上理念傳達的力量，將創新實驗精神具體化為表現作品。藉由本次創作實證研究，獲得以下三點結論：一、仿生概念應用於服裝設計，將生態永續發展的概念提升至藝術表現層次，使其在生活當中達到潛移默化的功效；二、在服裝設計上運用立體雕塑風格，在外觀結構與造型層次的強化，使作品更能傳遞仿生的內涵之意；三、強調在地本土色彩，以臺灣原生物種為題才，更能標示出自然與人類合諧共處之重要性。

關鍵字

仿生概念；軟雕塑；服裝設計

並列摘要

The creatures of the nature survive endless that is always the learning targets of the human beings from the ancient time. This kind of imitation science of natural biology is called as Biomimicry. Biomimicry was listed one of the most breakthrough business innovations in the Harvard Business Review in 2009. The Forbes also acclaimed it will be one of the successful technology trends for enterprises in 2014. It can be seen, the bionics concept is the newly significant thinking of contemporary. The clothing of human beings is not only having the functional wearing for the people, but also is one kind of delivering media of culture and thoughts of the time. The study of this creation is intended to use the clothing as a conveying carrier and apply the methods of bionics concept to achieve the following objects: (1) to discover the contextual developments by the way of organization and analyses of the documentation on the topic of the bionics and fashion design, in order to grasp the tendencies and trends of fashion design; (2) to understand the differences among the application of various fashion design styles and the expressing practices of designers by the way of comparative analyses of cases study, in order to get the study bases for this empirical creation; (3) to utilize a creative experiment to interpret the subtle of the nature from various kind of view and to apply the methods of bionics to transfer the alternative Aesthetic of reflection, in order to ponder the importance of ecological sustainability. There are some steps in this creation study. At first, documentation analyses were presented for the purpose of organizing and generalizing the developing trends of the bionics concept and fashion design. In the discussing processes of literature analysis, the three facets of applying principle of bionics concept and soft sculpture of costume were found. Secondly, cases study was described. This is a cumulative study of representative cases on the topic of bionics concept and the fashion design of soft sculpture in the contemporary. Via these successful cases study, the application principles on the costume were captured, then to build up the bases for this creation study. The ideas of this creative topic were presented in three aspects, namely, object of study, method of creation and media of creation. Owing to the ratios of biodiversity of Taiwan native plants are higher than the others in the world, the flowers full of visual viewing effects and female characters were selected to develop the context of creation. Taiwan is well-known as a kingdom of Phalaenopsis Aphrodite Subsp. Formosana, and the number of genes of Phalaenopsis Aphrodite Subsp. Formosana are very similar those of human beings, thus, the Taiwan native Phalaenopsis Aphrodite Subsp. Formosana was chosen as the creative topic for this creation study. Finally, the approach of creative experiment was conducted, i.e. to discover the feasibility of different creation elements from three kinds of applying principles of bionics (including mechanism, composition and exterior); then, to combine the elements of the soft sculpture with employing the exaggerated cut, multi-leveled stacking and integrating different materials for the purpose of reinforcing the delivery strength of the fashion visually. As a result, the manifestation of creation full of the spirit of innovative experiment was come true. There are three conclusions found via this creative experiment study. (1) The bionics concept applied to the fashion design is able to upgrade the concept of ecologically sustainable development level to the artistic expression level and to promote the effectiveness of the daily lives imperceptibly. (2) To employ three-dimensional sculpture style on the fashion design can enforce the external structure and the level of modeling, and assist in conveying the internal meaning of the bionics creation better. (3) To adopt Taiwan native species as the topics of fashion design can strengthen their local characteristics and are able to mark up the importance of living in harmony between the nature and the human beings.