拉鍊結構應用於功能性服裝設計創作研究

服裝產業因應快速變遷的時代，衍生出所謂「快速時尚」(Fast Fashion)的運作模式。此運作模式讓消費者可以用相較一般時尚國際品牌更低廉的價格，快速的擁有最新流行的時尚商品。但是，人們輕易取得廉價服裝後不珍惜的棄置、過季後生產過量的庫存商品被大批報廢銷毀造成大量的環境污染等問題，也不斷上演。本研究的目的在於強化服裝的功能性設計，透過設計創作研究來增加服裝價值，達到改善快速時尚所衍生的問題，提升服裝設計對社會的貢獻價值。本研究的基礎理論，是藉由文獻資料分析法，瞭解功能性設計與服裝設計的關聯性與發展概況。藉由案例分析法得知，功能性服裝的特質與類型。本創作研究以功能性為前提，選用機動連結特性高的拉鍊作為設計素材，並透過版型結構的運用，以多功能為設計概念，增加服裝的獨特性、趣味性、功能性、便利性，以提升消費者對商品的新鮮感，擴充商品價值。本研究將功能性服裝研究整理出三大翻轉特質，分別為本質的翻轉、功能的翻轉及造型的翻轉；從三大翻轉特質中數款草稿各選擇一款符合實用性、功能性、視覺美感三者兼具之款式繪製精稿，以便後續打版參考。研究者以市場上較容易被接受的款式做為選擇條件，從三款精稿中，挑選出功能的翻轉以及造型的翻轉兩種翻轉模式進行胚樣製作，最終選擇較不受硬體設備或科技技術限制，並且適合多數服裝路線套用之類型，加以研究並完成正式樣衣。經由上述研究獲得以下幾點結論：一、拉鍊的靈活機動特性可左右功能性服裝的成敗；二、功能性設計的翻轉機能確實能夠提升消費者對商品的興趣度；三、永續概念導入功能性為服裝的重要設計策略；四、功能性設計能夠提升服裝設計之社會價值。

關鍵字

拉鍊；功能性服裝

並列摘要

The fashion has changed rapidly these years, and there are so much new working methods called “fast Fashion”. Compared to the international famous brand, there are also many new brands that provides lower price but fashion garments. But there are new coming problems: the pollution from easily discarding and destroying due to overproduction. Through the functional design, we want to increase the value of the clothing and solve the problem above. So that we can increase the contribution of the fashion design in social responsibility. Through citation analysis, this study explored the development of functional design and the relevance of functional design and fashion design. Through the case study, we define the attribute and types of functional design. In this study, the core design material is zipper with the high flexibility.We also use multiple design concept in pattering to add the unique, savor, function and convenience of clothing. So that we can add the clothing’s value and make the consumers feel fresh. Through case study, we find that there are three important trait of reversal: nature, modeling and function. We choosethree clothing with practicality, function and visual aesthetics from drafts. We also consider the high market acceptance of the product and make further research such as pattering. Next, we decide the clothing of reversal function and modeling from the three chosen and make the sample without the limits of hardware or technology. Finally, we make the multiple functions clothing. According to our research, there are four important conclusions. First, the zipper with high flexibility is very important to functional clothing. Second, the consumers will be more interested in the garment through the reversal and functional design. Third, it is important to combine the sustainable concept with the functional design. Fourth, we can increase the social value of fashion design through the functional design.