新藝術風格應用於印花創作研究—以現代女性消費心理為例

新藝術Art nouveau為西元1880年至1910年橫跨歐美地區，以線條表現與裝飾美為主要目的藝術風格思潮，新藝術在當時並非為全新的藝術形態，而是吸收外來文化並融合多種時期的藝術特色。抱持著對舊時代的感懷兼具世紀末對邁向新時代的憧憬，複雜的情感造就出新藝術不僅只是風格，更是個思想活動風潮。時值女權運動的萌芽發展，女性藝術教育普及與女性專業技能的培養，加上女性的消費能力提高，造就許多以女性為新藝術風格主題的海報與設計。本研究將探討新藝術風格特色與當時女性形象，並以KJ歸島法與訪談方式，針對新藝術插畫圖像風格的表現手法進行分類，共獲得九種經典新藝術女性形象，分別為1.官能性感、2.生活閒適、3.歡愉熱情、4.高貴上流、5.知性專業、6.淡漠孤獨、7.神聖靈性、8.優雅唯美、9.神秘簡化。經瞭解當時對女性造型的描寫，喜好推崇以豐乳肥臀與腰線的展露為主；並將女性象徵為神話故事中的女神，給予性感神秘氛圍。愉悅的表情與華麗飛揚的裙襬線條代表著自我解放，更有女性穿著褲裝騎乘腳踏車作為自由新生活的表現，皆為新藝術展露女性形象樣貌之手法。各年代的女性皆以當時代的歷史文化背景反映在自身的形象上，自二十世紀以來，女性觀念的改變與女性自我覺醒，女性意識的提升促成消費動力，女性生活與消費產生更緊密的連結。本研究將新藝術時期風格海報圖樣所得經典女性形象，結合現代女性消費心理思維，以新藝術裝飾性手法設計九種主題絲巾印花，呈現於服飾與生活飾品，透過女性的織品裝飾彰顯個人特色與自我意識。本研究對新藝術風格文獻與探討研究流程，結合女性消費心理所設計之圖樣，可供日後設計者依此脈絡作為創作元素與靈感的獲得。

關鍵字

新藝術；女性形象；消費心理

並列摘要

From 1880 till 1910, Art nouveau became to display stripes and decoration beauty to have specific art style and trend to be the main purpose across the Europe and the United States. At that time art nouveau didn’t debut as a brand new art style, but it absorbed the foreign cultures and mixed multiple-time art features. It held the feelings to the old days and the prospect to the new era in the end of the century. Complicated feelings created art nouveau. Not only was it a style but also it was a trend of thought activity. It happened to be the time when the feminist movement first began and developed. Besides the women’s art education popularized and the female professional skills were cultivated and additionally the women’s consumption ability was raised, it created many posters and design taken women as the theme of art nouveau. The present study explores the features and the female images of art nouveau that time in those days. Moreover we use KJ Method and interviews to classify the performance methods of illustration image style. There are 9 classic Art nouveau feminine images in total. We realize how the women’s modeling was described. At that time people mainly liked to praise highly the stacked women and show the waistlines of their bodies. They also symbolize the women as the goddesses of the myths to create a sexy and secret atmosphere. The pleasant looks and magnificent floating skirt hems stand for self-liberation. What is more, there are even some women wearing trousers to ride bicycles to display the free new life as the styles and skills of showing female images of art nouveau. As time grows so rapidly, women’s ideas changes and the feminine self-consciousness, female lives and consumption connect more frequently than before. Not only do they construct their identities and class identity through consumption but also new women values link between female consumption and self-realization. Modern female consciousness promotes consumption motivations. There must be some outer forms of performance because of such objective facts. With literature reviews to explore the modern women’s culture psychology of consumption, the present study will look into the posters and patterns of art nouveau to obtain the classification performance of the classic female modeling features. Combining the modern female consumption psychological culture and thoughts, we can create printing pattern design with metaphor and decorative techniques. In the meanwhile the cloth printing will be shown among the clothing and life accessories. The concrete objects in life can blend into the ordinary users’ living range to perform individual style and taste. We can penetrate the metaphorical messages of art nouveau into our lives and make the users to have more normal thinking and understanding toward thinking phenomenon.