半世紀針線情— 從父親裁縫歲月看男子氣概

A Case Study of Masculinity From Occupation Tailor

尤貞嵐(Chen-Lan Yu)

指導教授 ： 王雅各

國立臺北大學/社會科學學院/社會學系/碩士(2013年)

摘要

裁縫是個歷史悠久的職業，在十七世紀法國裁縫師公會的成員皆為男性，但在二十世紀的統計研究，裁縫職業則多為女性主導。在裁縫職業中，手工訂製西服是比較特別的一個區塊，其學徒的招收以男性為主，但訓練過程則相當女性化，最終目的則是希望養成訂製西服師傅專業、負責之職業態度。

本研究以父親為個案，以口述歷史及生命故事敘說的方式，探討在他的成長過程中，形塑其人格特質的因素，以及父親身為為男性製作西服的男裁縫師，如何建構與展演男子氣概。

研究發現，通往男子氣概的途徑可以是多面相的。洗衣煮飯帶小孩看似女人的家事，也能培養一個人認真負責的態度。裁剪、縫紉等像是女人的針線活也能展現專業、事業有成的男子氣概。本研究也同時展現父親同時具備女性特質與男子氣概的人格特質，也讓我們重新思考男子氣概的定義及其適切性。

關鍵字

裁縫 ； 手工訂製西服 ； 職業性別區隔 ； 男子氣概

並列摘要

Tailor is a historic profession. The members of French Tailor Association were all men in seventeen century. However, the statistical research in twenty century showed that the tailor profession was led by women. In tailor job, the more special part is handmade suit, and the recruitment of apprentice was based on men, but the training process was quite feminine. The final goal was hoping to form the habit of professional attitude of professional and responsible like handmade- suit master.
The research was taken Father for example, using both ways of dictating history and narrating life story to discuss his grown-up, the factors of characteristic and how to make and show masculinity when Father was the man handmade-suit tailor.
Research showed that there was multiple- faced in the way of Masculinity. Being look like woman’s housekeeping such as washing clothes, cooking and taking care of children can form serious and responsible attitude in a person. Kinds of woman’s works like cutting out and sewing can also show masculinity of professional and successful career. It also showed the characteristic that Father had both feminine character and masculinity, and made us rethought the definition of masculinity and appropriateness.

並列關鍵字

Tailor ； Bespoke ； Domestic Division of Labor ； Occupational Segregation by Sex ； Masculinity

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